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VW Tech Water-Cooled
FAQ's
(Frequently
Asked
Questions)
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FAQ's
These are
Frequently
Asked technical
Questions about
the problems that commonly occur to Volkswagens. I only answer new
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for
AIR-COOLED TECH FAQ's
or Frequently Asked
Questions
The
following 3 factors are what it takes for an engine to run well or to
run at all. Your
ability to understand and fine tune these 3 adjustments is what will make
the engine perform at it's best: 1)
adequate
and nearly equal compression 2) a spark at the
right time and for the right duration (dwell angle), and 3) the correct fuel air mixture.
Try to determine these items first possibly with a tune-up and buy a Bentley repair
manual for your car. Always
remember the KISS rule.
Keep It Simple Stupid. Don't
assume it is complicated if you haven't first checked the basic and the
obvious possibilities.
1) compression 2) spark and 3) fuel
mixture.
Lenny M.
Click
Here to post for free your VW car or parts
that you have for sale or are looking to buy. For a limited time I
will be answering tech questions but only if I feel I have been
given enough info and it is written well enough that I can be of help
without having to ask 20 questions.
Color
Legend
Water-cooled
Engine Overheating
Engine Lubrication
Starting Problems
Tuning Problems
Electrical
Problems
Body Problems
DTCs
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (click here)
I was in the Sears
automotive tool department last weekend and I see
they now carry a cheap version of a scanner so you can now determine what
your fault codes are and you can delete them to see if they come back.
Unfortunately the tool does not include the text of the fault code, just
the number and in most cases if you have a "check engine light" on it
will come back unless you correct the fault. Without training I am not sure how much this will help you. This scanner
can't touch the flexibility and power of the laptop program I use in my
shop but is a start and if you don't correct the problem the MIL
(Malfunction Indicator Lamp) will just come back. You will only get
DTC numbers so you can click
here for the text.
One quick but important fact to know is that
things like a bad fuel pump or engine wear causing low compression,
blocked exhaust pipes, bad or incorrect fuel
might
only show up as a Cylinder Misfire fault code and give no clear indication to
the OBD (onboard diagnostics) computer of the problem. The computer will
only give you some kind of a hint as to where to go. I am not sure what
the value of that is. Overheating
I
REPEAT !! There
are 3 things that cause an engine to run hot;
1) Lack of coolant
A) Water leaks
B) Stuck thermostat or any
obstruction stopping flow to the
radiator and back to the cylinder head
C) Fan is bad or switch to
fan not workinG, bad connections to fan
or switch.
2) Ignition timing is too far advanced
3) Too lean a fuel mixture.
4) I recently bought a 1990 Jetta with no manual. The red temperature light is flashing when I drive (even on cold start). What does this mean?
Arman
Arman; When the light does flash it indicates 3 possible problems:
1)that you are running hot and
or
2) that your coolant level is below the minimum and
3) your coolant level
sender in your expansion tank is either
defective or their is a bad electrical connection to the sender.
If the gauge doesn't indicate hot,
i.e., above the centerline of the gauge about 160-180 F then the light is
probably telling you that you are low on coolant. Unfortunately if any of the
connections are bad or any of the sending units are defective you will find
yourself not knowing the status of your engine. Add water or antifreeze to your
system when it not hot and overflowing and if the light stops flashing then you
are in good shape but if you have to continue to add water then you may have a
leak and require a pressure test from a shop if you can't find it yourself.
Sometimes the expansion tank cap leaks but unfortunately we have no tool to
pressure test the cap so it should be replaced if you are not sure. You need to
fix it. Lenny M. 5/9/2001
My 1995 Passat GLS gets over 200 degrees (fahrenheit) when sitting still, and the fans do not kick on. It cools down on the open road. In
traffic. I must turn on the AC to avoid overheating, since this activates the fans. I have replaced the fan thermo switch on the radiator, to no avail. Please help.Darrell Campbell
12/4/2001
Darrel; When the water and coolant in your engine reaches 189 degrees F your thermostat
at the bottom of the engine will open shortly after that your fan
switch should turn on the fan so the engine temp will cycle somewhere between
189 and maybe175 or 180 degrees F. Of course you could have a radiator blocked with debris
this would cause the fan switch to turn late. So the first thing I would
do is let the car set and get cold. Then I would start the car, reach down and
feel the large hose coming from the bottom of the engine (thru the thermostat) and to the
lower portion of the radiator. It should feel cold ( i.e. outside ambient
temperature). As you watch the temp gauge in the car and if is working
correctly, and it usually is, you will see the temp rise slowly and the fan will
not come on until the temp gauge reaches the mid point on the gauge (about
189 degrees) that should be enough heat for the thermostat to open, releasing
the engine coolant into the radiator and then to the fan switch which should
react by turning on the fan. If the gauge reaches midpoint and continues to rise
and the lower hose still feels cool to the touch then the thermostat has not
opened yet. Remember the gauge is reading the temperature of the coolant inside
the engine water jacket so that is the same temp the thermostat should be
reacting to. Continue to feel the lower hose until it begins to heat up and that
is when the thermostat opened but if it opens very late or not at all or maybe
only partially then you need to replace it. Theoretically the gauge could go
just a little higher ,let's say 5/8s of the way up without causing any immediate
harm but if you get into the top quarter of the gauge you are asking for trouble
in the form of a blown head gasket or much worse. If you have any questions
about the thermostat replace it and be safe instead of sorry. It is an item that
should be replaced every so often anyways. After you feel the thermostat open
you can do something similar with the radiator if you can get access to feel the
heat of the hot water move from the right (or passenger) side to the left. This
may not be that easy and a hand held gauge would really be more accurate. As it
stand 200 degrees is not that far off the mark so if the gauge or temp sending
unit were defective you might get a bad reading. Lenny.
#7) I have an 87 Cabriolet, and sometimes the temp. light will come on and start blinking. By itself this would be no big deal, but the
ammeter, oil psi, and water temp gage in the console all go haywire. I have checked the grounds, and this happens with good
coolant, new belts, and the engine cool. Any idea?robert williams
7/15/2001
Robert; This could be 2 different problems. Your water temp
lite will flash
when your coolant is to hot or if the level is too low or if the coolant level
sender is defective or poorly connected. Inspect and clean the sensor
connection. If your gauges are all acting up pound a little on the dash
and watch the gauges to see if they react or reach underneath if you can and wiggle the
multi-prong connectors going into the dash and look for a change. It could be a bad connection
or something much more complicated like a bad circuit in the instrument cluster
circuit board. Lenny
#9) Hi Lenny,
I have a 2000 VR6 that has 23540 miles on it (Jan 2000 to Jul 2001).
I had the 20K mile service done and I assume they topped all the fluids. When I took a peek under the hood yesterday (@ 23530 miles) I find the engine coolant level very low. So my questions are:
1) Is it possible for the engine coolant level to go dangerously low with NO indication ?
ie. no warning lights, beeps etc
2) Is it supposed to fall so low in 3,400 miles IF the dealer topped it @20K ?
3) Could this be to a crack in the block and coolant's seeped in the engine ?
The car drives great but in the mornings, it sounds just a little rough (raspy?) when accelerating (you have to really listen though)
Thanks!
SA
Alex 7/30/2001
Alex; From the info you gave me, and if it is accurate and you left nothing out then
my educated guess is that
1) Your cylinder head would crack long before your block would but
only if your
car had overheated at anytime. In 22 years of working on VW's I have seen2
blocks crack after extreme overheating and they were both diesels.
2) If the dealership didn't top off your coolant when the engine was cool then
you might have had an air bubble in the system
3) If you continue to have to top off your coolant level in the future then you
probably have a slow leak in a hose or something and the best way to find out
where is to have a technician do a pressure test.
4 )If your coolant level drops below an indicated (marked) minimum level on your
overflow or expansion tank and you are not getting a warning light then you have
some defective sensor or gauges and that needs to be corrected also. Lenny.
David; I was surprised that I did not hear you mention the thermostat. If
you start the car when it is cold and you watch the temperature gauge when it
gets to just above the middle of the gauge and meanwhile the whole time you
monitor the opening of the thermostat by feeling the hose going from the
thermostat to the radiator you should feel the hose get warm all of a sudden
when the thermostat opens. If it is stuck and fails to open then the hot water
will get hotter in the engine and the gauge will continue to rise and the fan
switch in the radiator won't get hot enough to turn on the fan. Voila !! you are
overheating. Lenny.
 Hiya Lenny;
My Name is Shin And i have been told by a friend that what you dont know about VW's is not worth knowing so is my
dilemma.
I
am in the Uk and drive a VW Passat 1.8 t 20v which is a brilliant
car, With a LPG Conversion which was done over 18 months ago , but a
couple of days ago the engine management lamp came on (the little engine
shaped lamp which the manual tells me is the exhaust emission lamp) but
after taking it in to a local VW Specialist he tells me that the fault
code is
16795
P0411
Sec.Air
Inj.Sys. Incorrect Flow Detected
and
that it needs further investigation, having spoken to a couple of other
VW people they are all saying different things and to be honest i dont
know which way to turn.
Shin: You have some kind of leak or malfunction in your secondary air injection system. This small
squirrel cage fan in your engine compartment usually turns on especially
at start-up when the engine is cold and pumps additional outside air in the exhaust system so the extra oxygen will help to heat up the oxygen sensor and catalytic converter earlier and get the emissions system to kick in
earlier. It is usually more of an emmissions problem than an operational performance problem but still needs to fixed at some point. Lenny
Engine Lubrication
#1) I have a 1992 Jetta 1.8L with 5 speed transmission with 118,000 miles on it. I am having trouble with the oil pressure warning system. I have verified with a mechanical gauge that there is 20 psi at idle at the oil filter and the head. I have also installed a new oil pump, new
pressure sensors, 20w50 oil and a Bosh oil filter. I still have an intermittent
warning light and buzzer. The light and buzzer come on at idle most times and can be cleared
temporarily by revving the engine. The oil light and buzzer will also go off for very short periods while driving the car.
I have been suspecting an electrical connection but have not been able to pinpoint the problem. The VW dealer is suggesting changing the flex board on the back of the instrument cluster.
Any suggestions would be most appreciated.
thanks,
m vossbergmichael vossberg 11/3/2001
Mike; Most of the 95-92 Golf and Jettas have a small circuit board in the
instrument cluste called a "dynamic oil pressure control unit" .The book will
tell you that minimally acceptable oil pressure is 2 Bar or 29 PSI at 2000 RPM.
If you have that minimum then the problem is probably with your senders or
gauges or the connections in between or the dopc unit.. This dynamic oil pressure
control unit or dopc unit checks oil pressure at low RPM
and at higher speeds. You can check that flexible circuit board visually and
with great care and you might find a break. It might be nice to have a used
known good unit that you could plug in as a tester. Then you need to isolate
whether the problem is in the flex board or in the dopc which is a circuit
shaped like the state of Florida or you just have bad connections somewhere.
Sometimes just wiggling wires to see the gauges move is one of the best
diagnostic tools there is. Lenny
#2) Lenny, first of all, great page! I have a 1993 Cabriolet. I recently cleaned the engine out with Gunk cleaner. Ever since then, I'm seeing the Bar level go down below 2 and the oil light coming on when I come to a stop. Is there a sensor that I don't know about that could have gotten wet and is there a way to test to verify
wether or not I have a real problem? Thanx in advance!
Jerry Bommarito 9/8/2001
Jerry; The only way to tell for sure if your oil pressure is low is to remove
the oil pressure sending unit from the end of the head and put an oil
pressure gauge in the hole. The book says that the minimum acceptable
pressure is 2 bar or 29 PSI when the engine is revved up tp 2000 RPM. If you
do not have a gauge a trained or sensitive ear will do because if your oil
pressure was low you would definitely hear your valve lifters making noise at an
idle. 1 or 2 lifters will sometimes make noise when the engine is cold but that
is normal. In my shop we would run the pressure test , clean the connection and
replace the sending units (2). If the press is not low that would usually fix
the problem. If that doesn't do it it may be a defective Dynamic Oil Pressure
Control Unit in your instrument cluster.
If the pressure is low then 9 out of 10 times you have a oil pressure relief
valve stuck in your oil pump and the pump needs to be replaced before it damages
the engine. For some reason it is not uncommon for a customer to get their oil
changed and all of a sudden the valve gets stuck. We don't know why this happens
and to date we have no way of preventing it. Lenny.
1999 VW Passat 1.8T Automatic
I bought this car in Oct of 02 and in Feb I took the car in for an oil change at Texaco (mistake, I know!) Well, the oil light came on. After confirming that there was enough oil in the car we took the car into the dealer and was told there was a faulty sensor and replaced it. Well, the light continued to come on while driving mainly at 2000-2500
rpms. We then had the oil changed at the dealer and then the light came back on and we could hear the lifters. We took the car to another dealer after
reading VWs need heavier oil and had the oil changed to 20W50 today. Well, we cannot hear the lifters anymore, but the light is now coming on less but at about 1500
rpms. Can you suggest anything. The first dealer wanted 1100.00 to look in the engine just to see what could be wrong, no guarantee.
Angie Sarman, Jacksonville FL
I'd have to see the results of a oil pressure test to see if minimal
oil pressure standards are met. The oil pump is very often the problem especially when it occurs right after an oil change. Lenny
Subj: oil pressure Date:
4/9/03 anex.com I have a 90 volkswagen Jetta (gas)and have experienced my oil
alarm ringing in. I had my mechanic change the switches but it still rings in. I
ran with an oil pressure gauge in my front windshield to get an indication at
what pressure the oil was running at. When it was connected to the lower(
location on the engine block) switch the pressure ran between 20 and 25 psi. The
alarm still rang in. When I ran it from the upper location the pressure ran
lower ( about 18-20) psi. The alarm never rang in because I have to take the
switch out to put in the pressure gauge. I am wondering from what I have told
you if you have any recommendations for me. Thanks Clint.
Clint;
Your Bentleys manual will tell you that minimum oil pressure for that car
is 2 bar or 30 P.S.I. when the engine is revved up to 2,000 RPM. You don't
have to be driving the car to run this test. Also if your oil pressure
really is low you probably will be able to hear that the engine is noisier
than usual. For some reason or other the oil pumps on these cars will
suddenly go out on you. Probably the pressure relief valve in the pump is
getting stuck in a partially open position. The oil pressure problem if
you have one could also be the result of connecting rod and or main
bearing wear or could be a secondary problem created by bad pump or visa
versa. We always replace the pump with a new one and remove some or all of
the connecting rod bearing caps to check for wear. If oil pressure is not
below specs then the switches or possibly a circuit board in your dash
instrument cluster called a "dynamic oil pressure control unit"
shaped like a map of the state of Florida may have a bad connection or is
defective. Lenny.
#16) Hi Lenny,
I have a 1988 Passat CL 1.6 (Euro) and I am wondering about the engine. It started to
drink oil. It has about 100 000 miles. No leaks. No smoke at the tail pipe and the pipe is dry and the plugs are dry too. I know it's not enough information can you venture a guess? I am guessing (more like hoping) that it's just the valve seals that are shot but you are the man.
EdEd Nukic 9/4/2001
Ed; Check for oil drips under car and if there is any then check your valve
cover gasket first and then check the gear side of the engine for seals leaking.
Lenny

STARTING
PROBLEMS
Have 93 Passat GLX just turned 100k.Recent tuneup and runs great but occasionally cranks but won't start (warm or cold). Had it towed twice and it started immediately after being lowered from the truck. Have been told it could be fuel pump, ECU, or starter. Any experience with this phenomenon?
greg burt jibecomms@hotmail.com 12/25/2001
Greg; Do
you mean engine won't run or starter won't work. Either way if
you lift or jiggle the key switch does this have any effect on starting. If so
the key switch, the key switch housing and the electrical ignition switch needs
to be replaced, all of them. That is the best I can tell with what you gave me. Lenny
#18) I have a 86 Jetta GLI i can get it to start if i jump from the battery to the starter but if i try the key nothing it is a 5 speed does it have a
safety switch if so where is it? pillar 9/17/200
Pillar; There is no safety switch on a manual 5 speed of that year.
You either have a bad ignition (electrical) switch or a bad connection
coming from it to the starter. If can get underneath the steering column where
the ignition switch is you can pull the connector off and inspect it and then
us a jumper from the large red wire to the starter wire (usually a large
red wire with a black stripe to see if the starter works . If it does then
your problem is probably the ignition switch.
great to find a ste for informationBryan Crandell
12/17/2001
Hi Lenny; I have a problem with a 1996 Jetta Trek Automatic
(2L). The car is
reluctant to start. It will crank well but doesn't fire. Occassionaly it will
fire just as you release the igntion switch from the start position. Also I
tried to read the error codes; the MIL went out but did not blink any codes. Any
ideas would be greatly appreciated. BryanBryan Crandell 12/17/2001More
information on the Jetta Trek. The engine is a type ABA which means the timing
is not adjustable; although the timing light indicates the timing is retarded. I
checked the knock sensor, which the manual said would retard timing and it seems
fine. Any ideas?????Bryan 12/18/2001
Bryan; If the car starts after you have just released the ignition switch then there is a very good chance you have a bad ignition switch. Unfortunately you have to replace the electrical ignition switch, the key/tumbler portion of of the ignition switch and key/tumbler housing portion of the switch or you might not fix the problem and on top of that you need a special and expensive puller to do this job and only a shop like ours would have this special tool.
Get the ignition switches replaced first then lets see if you still have a
problem. I have got to tell you tho without a scanner or another computer to
erase the fault codes in your PCM you may not be able to do job. Good luck Lenny.

TUNING
PROBLEMS
If
you don't understand the importance of OXYGEN
SENSORS in tuning then click here first to receive a tutorial
about this important subject.
#14)
have a Golf Mk3 VR6 1996, unmodified, that has a misfire from 5,000rpm through to about 5,500rpm, and a very light misfire at about 4,200 rpm. Also, it can sometimes miss and splutter from very low revs, in, say, 3rd gear. Is this likely to be the
powerpack, or plug leads, as they seem to fail constantly on VR6's !James Little 8/30/2001
James; I would have to interrogate your on-board engine computer to even get
started on that problem.Lenny. 
#15) My 1993 Passat stalls when the engine is cold. A tune-up did not solve the problem. Is it a sensor?
Steven Hanson 8/31/2001
Steve;
Same answer, I would have to start by scanning your Powerplant Computer
Module,
your PCM, (or ECM for Electronic Control Module) to determine where to start.
Lenny. 
hi.i am tring to find the timing
specs for a 1992 golf
thanks for the helpbob bourassa bobbass@videotron.ca 11/30/2001
Bob; Please Bob, get a repair manual.
I have a shop to run. I don't recommend anybody work on their car without
a repair manual. I don't and neither should you. Lenny.
I have a passat vr6 from '92. Recently it started running bad.
When i put the gas pedal down it just like something is holding it back and then it slowly starts to get better but it still isn't quite what it used to be.
I think it has something to do with the injection system or with the feul pump. Please help me.
Greetings from Holland.b.pulles 12/3/2001
B; It is good to hear from you Holland but
I don't have enough info I would be guessing. Lenny
i was wondering if anyone knew the exact spark plug gap for a 1991 passat (4 cylinder 2.0 liter fuel injected)and will the gaps for platinum plugs be any differentAJ Riskybuisness00@aol.com 12/27/2001
Bosch spark plugs all come pregapped and don't need to be tampered with at all. Lenny
ELECTRICAL
PROBLEMS
Tech Data
Wiring Terminal
Identification by Number Next
time you pull a relay or a switch and look at the numbers and wonder what
they mean you will wish you had this list. I only wish I had had it 20
years ago. My 1974 VW bug just lost both headlights, they both quit working
at the same time, what should I check in order of importance, and best
"guess" in order to pinpoint the problem? Thanks, Bobby HedrickBobby
Hedrick 12/16/2001
Bob; Common sense should tell you headlites are normally on separate fuse so that
if the fuse blows you won't find yourself driving down a dark road and all of a
sudden finding yourself in a canal. Chances are you have loss of power to your
lite switch or a bad switch or bad connection coming out of the switch. My money
is on the switch. Lenny
As an add on to rich's question on 11/1/01, my '97 Golf recently wouldn't start after stopping to get gas. The alarm kept going off and the lights dimmed when trying to start it, the instrument panel flashed 'error' in the mileage window, and the clock went to 0:00. We jumped the battery and it ran but the instrument panel still didn't work properly. The battery didn't hold the charge and wouldn't start after a 2nd jump. The dealer said it was the battery which they replaced and the instrument panel shorted out probably because they crossed the cables when jumping the battery. (AAA jumped it so I would guess they know what they are doing.) It has to be replaced. Is this problem with the instrument panel related to the battery or is it an electrical problem? Thanks.Tara 12/3/2001
Tara; You said it yourself, if they jumped the battery in reverse they also
reversed the flow of electricity probably burning out all sorts of nifty little
electrical devices. Lenny.
28)
I have 1997 gti vr6. Recently I jumped my car but accidentally crossed the jumper cables, can I fry the computer like that? According to the dealer
that's, what happened, but I thought there were fuses to protect against that. rich
11/1/2001
Rich; The books always tell you that you should not jump your car's
battery with cables if it has a PCM or ECM onboard. No there is usually no fuse to
protect the computer unless possibly a fuse protecting the relay that might
power the computer. Having said that if you reverse the jumper cables on your
car I think you stand a good chance of frying a lot of components on your car
including your car's computer. Lenny.
Hi Lenny. I've borrowed my friends 1989 VW Jetta and have come upon a problem. The radiator fan is staying on after the car is shut off. So long that it ends up killing the battery. We're trying figure out what sensors might need to be replaced. Have you had this problem before and if so what was the solution? Do you know where online one might find a wiring diagram? Must I go out and purchase the manual? Cheers.david moran
1/2/2002
David; Depending on the speed of the fan ,fast would mean you probably
have a bad thermo fan switch in your radiator that needs replacing or if the
speed is slow then you have a bad AC fan relay which turns the fan on whenever
the AC is running. Get a book. You may have a fan relay that is defective
besides the AC fan relay. Lenny
Hello I have two questions. I have a 95 jetta 2.0 . I'm trying to change the sparkplugs on it but I can't pull the wire and the manifold sits on top. It's my first time driving a VW so I'm not really familiar with the engine and I don't know how to remove the wires. If you could help me on this I would really appreciate it. Also, I would like to hook my car up with some performance parts and I'm looking around and seems like neuspeed makes most the parts for my car. What would you
recommend from experience, on what companies should I rely on to shop. Thanks for your time and hopefully you might help me.Oscar C
1/8/2002
Oscar; Pulling those spark plug wires is done with a special hand tool
that would normally be clipped on your front hood support rod but they often
fall off. If you don't use the tool you stand a chance of damaging the ignition
wires. Maybe if you are careful you can do it with a pair of plyers. Neuspeed
makes some good products. Baum tools should have that tool. Lenny
Hi,
I have an 89 Jetta GL. The car wont start. I figure more or less that the car isn't getting any
gas because when I sprayed gas in the engine, it started. I hot - wired both pumps so I was sure about the gas flow, but the car still wouldn't start. I have come to realize that the injectors aren't getting any current to open or close. Why isn't the car getting the current? How can I fix the problem?
Il Naga Bklyn, NY 1/12/2002
Naga; You did a real good job of laying out the facts. I will have to
assume that from your description you have a Digifant injection system
and the injectors are not pressure activated but are electrical solenoids. The
fact is the Digifant is a good system and is very self correcting to small
intake leaks and other problems but there is only 1 output from the computer and
that is the signal it sends to the injectors telling them to shoot fuel into the
intake manifold and if there is no signal from the computer to the injectors
then you could have 1 or more problems. The most likely culprit is 1) no power
to the computer, possibly a power relay, 2) no ground connection to the
computer, usually a ground strap that goes to the from the top of the cylinder
head to the computer or 3) a burnt out computer often caused by those bad
connections. Let me know what you find. I need input myself to see if I am
giving good advice. Lenny .
Hi Lenny,
I have a 1999 1.8T Passat GLX and just recently the entire instrument panel went dead. No odometer, no
speedometer, no clock and none of the other gauges work. The check engine light is on. I suspected a fuse but could not determine which one needs to be changed. Any advice you have is appreciated.
Sal, San Francisco, CA 1/14/2002
Sal; For starters lets keep it simple. I am
going to talk about basic common sense measures because I don't feel like
looking in the book unless I had the car in front of me. First thing you could
do is rap with the flat of your hand on the dash above the instrument cluster
and if the lights flicker or come on then your bad connection is in the dash and
very possibly is the push-on multi-prong connector (MPC) that goes into the
dash. If that were the case then you might be able to go the next step and reach
under the dash and find the MPC going to the instrument cluster move it a little
bit with your hand and if the lights flicker then you are closer to isolating
the problem. If you have to pull the steering wheel to remove the instrument
then you are probably in over your head since you will need an expensive special
steering wheel puller and disconnecting the air bag which I don't recommend. If
you could get the MPC down without pulling the dash then you could check a black
wire to see if you are getting power when the key is on or a brown wire to
see if you have a good ground. You need them both. Lenny.
2000 Jetta GL. The lamp behind my climate control panel has gone out. How can I change it myself, without breaking some hidden plastic clip?
Rob, Arlington, VA rpiester@bellatlantic.net 1/16/2002
Rob; Very carefully?? Lenny.
Color
Legend
Water-cooled
Engine Overheating
Engine Lubrication
Starting Problems
Tuning Problems
Electrical
Problems
Body
Problem
RADIOS
RADIOS
I
have a wonderful 97 VW Jetta, and when I have work done on it--sometimes
the radio "locks up." By this I mean that you need a code to
make it work again. I bought the car used, and the dealer did not give me
a manual. I even wrote them and asked for one---and after the sale--well
let's just say I won't but another car from them again :( If someone knows
the code so I can turn on the radio, I would be oh-so-happy---not as happy
as having our soldiers come home soon--but pretty close :) Thanks and
BLESS YOU for even considering answering this irritating question! But I
am not buying the manual!!!! Karen. Karen Knight, Columbus, Ohio TWEETYCCC@aol.com
4/10/2003
Karen;
If you remove the radio you will find a serial number on the radio. You
should be able to call the service dept of any dealership and give them
the number and possibly your VIN number and they should be able to look in
their computer and tell you what the code is and you should have
instructions for entering the code in your radio in the manual in your
glove compartment or call the dealership for instructions
on how to activate the radio. Lenny. Jamie Gravelle, PEI Canada phingazz@hotmail.com 3/13/2003
#25) Lenny:
I recently purchase a 1996 VW Jetta, I had to replace the battery, and now the radio displays "SAFE" In looking through the owners manual I found the radio code,
unfortunately I also found a repair order indicating that the radio had been replaced a few years ago and I do not have the new code--- what can I do?
Thanks
ChrisChris Hughes 10/28/2001
Chris; Since the number was not saved you are going to have to pull the
radio out of the dash and you will find a serial number for the radio. You
then have call or go to the dealership possibly with your VIN number also
and they will give you the code and instructions. Earlier radios required
a special tool that will find in a Bentleys manual but we just made 2 of
then out of 2 pieces of coat hanger wire and sharpened the ends for easy
entry. Later model tools (in the book also) were different. Check your
book. Lenny
I recently purchased 97 VW CABRIO(H/L). I don't know the radio safety code #, so I cannot listen to radio yet. Is there any way to find the code number
from VIN or anything?
Thank you, Akira Takahashi 1/1/2002
Akira; If the radio doesn't have neutral factory setting of all 1s like 1111 or
0000 then you have to pull the radio and get the serial number off the radio
then call any dealership and they should have the number in their computer. If
you try unsuccessfully to enter the code maybe 3 or 4 times then you may have to
wait an hour before you can try again.
#2)
Are there problems with unexpected engine failures in the VR6
eng Lynn Gregg
5/1/2001
Lynn; As the owner of a VW repair shop for over 20 years I can tell you the weak link
in the water-cooled VW's (let's not talk about the Wasserboxers) is not the
powerplant. I have one customer with a 1987 Cabriolet that has over 800,000
miles and counting. Of course that is not a VR6 but I have no direct knowledge
of the VR6 motor having problems and it carries a 100,000 or ten year warranty
and they have been producing them since 1993. In other words I haven't had
anyone come to my shop with a bad engine yet. In fact the weak link is more
likely to be electronic than mechanical. That figures since the 100,000 mile
warranty covers only lubricated drive train parts and the main computer. Lenny M.
#6)
Hi, I have a 1996 Passat GLS and would like to change the pollen filter. I understand that if the filter becomes very dirty, this could effect the AC's output,
is that true? I just noticed an odor coming from the vents when it is on..
Thank you,
TSTony Stout 7/12/2001
Tony; I recommend you replace it. If
it is wet and causing oders it could be causing more problems than it is
solving. It should be located under the hood in the air plenum passenger side
near the windshield. Lenny.
#11) Are any specialty vw tools required to replace the rear shocks in a 95 jetta glx? thanks
steve.
Steve; If you are using a good Bentley's manual it will tell you if you need special
tools and it will also give you the VW number (VAG) Tools are available from Baum
Tools ,Assenmacher or Zelender Tool Company. Check the internet for their
telephone numbers or URLs.
My sister's 1997 Jetta 2.0 5sp with 55k miles has developed a clicking under load in reverse. The local dealer wants $700 to pull the transmission to take a look. She is the original owner so the 100K warranty should still apply. Is this a frequent problem with this transmission? What are the chances that it will be covered under warranty?
Thanks for any help you can give! Paul
Paul;
Anything in the drive train (engine and transmission) that is lubricated by
oil should be covered. If this is a automatic transmission the electrical
solenoids in the tranny may not be covered. I am not sure. Sensors and computers etc are not
covered. The mechanical parts of the tranny should be. Lenny.
I have a '93 VW Passat VR6 and I had the transmission replaced by a local dealership. They of course, were no help to me. Since I have had the
vehicle back, the tranny shifts through gears 1-2-3 just fine, but when it comes upon gear #4 it shifts once at 2500rpm and then again (about 2-3 seconds later) at 2100rpm. The shifts are very abrupt as well.
Also, after only going over 60 mph the car will shift itself out of overdrive to a lower gear. A gain from 2500rpm to about 4000rpm
happens. Then,just turn off the engine, restart, and it shifts ok, until you go over the 60mph again... What could this be?
GerryGerry Holland 8/28/2001
Gerry; Sounds like a problem for the people that
sold you the tranny. Lenny. 
#19) I have a 1985 Jetta GL. Recently at around 360,000km I had the master cylinder replaced and
the booster and the proportioning valve. Now at 412,000km Im having a problem with the front brakes. when it is cool out the pedal stays soft and rims remain
relatively cool-the right front is always warmer then the left. On hot days the right rim becomes so hot it has melted the hub cap, and will hold car on a slight incline. why is this with the temperature change and only on the one side of the car? Problem becomes most noticable around mid 20c to 30c. I have replaced both front calipers, replaced brake fluid every 2 years since new. How does the proportioning valve work on this car?harry
9/24/2001
Harry; I had this problem on one of my personal cars and I wish I
could tell exactly what the problem is. I can only tell you what the
solution was for me. In my case both front calipers were binding up to the
point where the car wouldn't even roll. I tried a lot of things but the
last thing I did was to replace the master cylinder and either turn or
replace the rotors because they were extremely warped at this point. That
fixed it for me.
The proportioning valve reacts to the distribution of weight in the car because
if you are by yourself in the car the car will brake differently than if you
had a full tank of gas, 2 NFL football players in the back seat and a trunk
full of bricks. In fact the front or rear brakes will lock up on you if the
weight distribution in your car is way out of whack. When there is more weight
in the back the rear of the car will sink lower and the proportioning valve
which is attached to the rear suspension I-beam will pull on the valve and will
then redistribute the brake pressure from front to rear thus avoiding brake
lock up. The most common way to spot a proportioning valve that is bad to is
that it begins to leak brake fluid. Lenny
#24) I HAVE A VOLKSWAGEN JETTA 1987 AND THE FUEL PUMP BROKE IT IS VERY EXPENSIVE, $200. CAN I ADAPT ANY
DIFFERENT FUEL PUMP?Francisco Rico 10/23/2001
Francisco; You are withholding evidence. You say the pump is broke but
what do you mean? The pump is noisy, fuel pressure readings are low, the pump is
bound up. You have 2 pumps in that car. 1 small cheaper pump in the tank and the
larger main pump under the car sometimes encased in a plastic housing to keep it
running cooler. The main pump does not fail that often. If the in-tank pump
fails the larger more expensive main pump that is under the car will get noisy
and it will eventually ruin the main pump. If the main pump fails it will not
ruin the in-tank pump. If either pump is not getting at least 12 volts it will
eventually destroy the pumps.
We usually replace the small pump first then if
there are still problems with the main pump it is next. Lenny. 
#29) Is it necessary to remove any
splash (engine) quards to change the oil
on a '99 Passat 1.8T.?
If so any tips or tricks ? Joe 11/3/2001
Note Joe;
Is it necessary that I answer this question. I am assuming at this
point that one of my employees must be playing a trick on me by writing this
email. You know, things like
"How often do I have to adjust the piston return springs?" Please
people, help me. Turn off your computer, go outside, get down on your knees
and look under your car and see if there is a splash pan blocking your oil
filter. Get a Bentley's repair manual and I am sure it will tell you how to
remove the 4 to 6 bolts that might be holding the splash pan on. It might even
instruct you how to reinstall those same bolts. Don't forget to check the
torque specifications. (Just kidding). Viel gluck ( good luck), Lenny
Hi Lenny, I have an 1985 Jetta 1.8l. Every couple of days i have to add some oil. The engine is not leaking from anywhere except under the air cleaner. so i opened up the air cleaner and half of the air filter is soaked in oil. I checked inside the line that comes from the pvc valve no oil there. I am assuming that the airflow meter is shot. is there some kind of fix for it or do i have to replace it, and if i do have to replace it, is it an easy job.Pat
12/5/2001
Pat; Check first to make sure
your positive crankcase ventilation hoses are routed properly. Next make sure
your dipstick is reading correctly. Drop the oil and filter if you have any
doubt and refill the engine oil based on the book (around 4 quarts). Then check
your dipstick reading. Last and probably most likely pull off the oil filler cap
off the valve cover and look inside. If you see a camshaft instead of a plastic
splash cover hiding your camshaft then this your problem. Pull the valve cover
and install the plastic splash cover (part # 026 103 547). They are cheap and
easy to replace . Don't forget to put a new valve cover gasket kit on. (Please
no silicone for gosh sakes) Your air flow meter should be fine. Lenny. 
when their hands are full of grease and they need some very
simple piece of info that could be found in 2 seconds in the book. Heck, the
fingerprints alone make for great bookmarks. It has some advantages especially
if you can get used to the search engine it provides. Sometimes it actually
works but imagine what my mechanics think when their hands are full of grease
and they need some very simple piece of info that could be found in the book.
Heck, the fingerprints alone make for good bookmarks. I can get the cd rom for
you. I will get back with you Monday with a price plus s & h.
E-mail me with your previous
question and I will see what I can do.
Lenny M.
I need to replace the motor mounts on my 95 Passat. Is this
something that a reasonably handy person can do? The dealer wants $700 to do it.
Thanks. Jim EttweinJim Ettwein 12/20/2001
Jim; Even with a lift the job is not that easy and with
an automotive lift it is still difficult. Lenny
I have a 1992 Jetta that has been in the garage for the last 4 months , i bought the car drove it 30 miles and it died and it
wouldn't start i was told it was the ECM . but that did nothing, so i had it brought to a shop and they said it was the HALL
EFFECT so they got a new distributor but that didn't fix it either, they said that the positive side of the coil has a signal but the
negative side isnt pulsing, but the distributor has a pulse. any idea of what it might be
cause me and the guys at the shop would really like to know any ideas you might have to
solving the problem. thanks. mikeMichael L professa_420_69@yahoo.com 12/22/2001
My daughter recently purchased a used 1996 Cabrio in nice condition. It runs great but we have noticed that the interior fills with water if left out in the rain. It is not the convertible top..it is new. We have run water tests on it but can not find the problem. The car is usually parked on an incline. When it
rains the driver's front carpet gets wet but not soaked...the rear passenger side and driver side get soaked. My guess is that the weep hole in front of the
windshield on the driver's side might be filled with foreign material that soaks up an initial amount of water but then leaks into the passenger area when the foreign material get water logged. I think the water then runs down the interior floor next to the drivers door wicking out to the drivers carpet but collecting and soaking the back carpet. I don't understand how the the water gets through the
center "hump" between the 2 seats unless there are holes in it for wiring etc. Have you encountered such problems/questions before and do you think I am on the right track. I am not mechanically
inclined! And can water leak into the passenger compartment from those holes or should I look elsewhere? The Volkswagen dealer could not give me any answers. The carpet under the gas and brake
pedal (on the inclined firewall stays dry but gets wet on the driver's side floor, rear driver's and rear
passenger side floor. My daughter loves the car but is frustrated with the soaked and foul smell of wet carpet! HELP PLEASE....Sincerely Clark SempleClark semplec@hotmail.com 12/27/2001
Lenny, the crankshaft flywheel pulley bolt on my golf
diesel recently sheared off completely throwing the injection and alternator
belts off as well and probably the timing belt as well. My local specialist
tells me I will need a new crankshaft as it is impossible to get the rest of the
bolt out of the crankshaft. Is this correct? Are there ways of getting this bolt
out economically or do I need to replace the whole shaft? Lenny, the crankshaft
flywheel pulley bolt on my golf diesel recently sheared off completely throwing
the injection and alternator belts off as well and probably the timing belt as
well. My local specialist tells me I will need a new crankshaft as it is
impossible to get the rest of the bolt out of the crankshaft. Is this correct?
Are there ways of getting this bolt out economically or do I need to replace the
whole shaft?Graeme Biddle.
Graeme; I can answer your question but I just wish I could get people making
inquires to tell me simple stuff like the year of the car , tranny type, size of
engine etc. Anyways , here goes. We see this problem every so often and each
time the car was of a certain age and type that the owner couldn't justify a
complete overhaul which require pulling the transmission in order to replace the
crankshaft. This is what we did. We rigged it, with the owners full
understanding of what we were doing and each time it worked. First off the
crankshaft pulley will deliberately not bottom out when it is installed so we
have always been able to get it out. It is made of a different hardness of of
steel so it does not readily want to gall or combine with the softer steel of
the crankshaft. It takes a little time and patience, less than an hour, but we
have always in the past been able to back the remnants of the crank pulley bolt
out by taking a punch or a chisel and carefully tapping on the bolt remnant in a
couterclockwise direction until the shaft eventually spins out. At this point I
would be very surprised if the crank gear were not damaged so you probably
will need to replace it. Also the keyway on the crank is probably damaged. With
a new crank gear you usually can realigne the gear very close to the original
position it should be in. Use lock-tite on the bolt. If the key way on the crank
is damaged and it usually is you will want to add some JB weld and let it setup
overnight. Also another trick to keep the gear from slipping would be to drill
with a small drill bit into the seam or mating surface of the inner portion of
the gear and the outer diameter surface of the crankshaft as tho you were
drilling a new keyway and then breaking the drill bit off inside the crank and
gear. I have done this on diesels and gas engines and have never seen one come
back yet. WARNING This is not the "proper " way to make the repair but
it can work. By the way do you think the valves in the cyl head got damaged when
the bolt came loose? Lenny My 95 Golf has 72000 miles. I hear that the timing belt needs changed. Is the failure of a timing belt catastrophic (= expensive) or does the engine just quit?
Thanks!rod 1/2/2002
Rod; Catastrophic at high speeds. Assuming you have a ABA 2Liter engine the pistons
will slam into the valve at higher speeds, 50 mph or more, but possibly may not
cause damage at a low idle. Unlike the dealership that used to recommend
replacement of the belt at 60,000 miles I recommend replacement at 45,000 miles.Lenny
1989 Jetta 1.6 Digifant II
My cars problem started with the car stalling after was driven for more than halve an Hour and refusing to start again. After few hours could start again. But when I drive it for several minutes then sundenly stops like the current or the fuel suply was cut. I check the current supply and it seams that is working fine.
Later on I could not starting at all and I call in the engineers. The
conglusion was that the oxigen/fuel mixture was to reach, the battery
too low and they found also that sometimes the injectors where still
working even when the engine was not running resaulting in flooding the
engine with gasoline. Since they don't have the specs of this car they
did some guessin and fixing work but the only thing they manage was a
smoothly running engine for few minutes and then stall again. I by
myself suspect that the engine was choking do to block cutalitic
converter so I sugest to loose the conection prior the catalytic
converter. The results where a running engine for few more minutes.
Layter on I tried the car and I found that the engine could run for
longer times with the aircondition on, does this has anything to do with
the vocoum system and if yes, can be the problem in the fuel presure
regulator? This all seams to be logical but what about the flooding of
the engine? Is there is any case that failure of the coil made the
distributor stop on a close sircout with the ECU reasulting in a
continues injection pulses even with no running engine? The Chinese
enginers can not solve the puzle and since they don't have such an ECU
they can not try with a new one to see if that solves the problem. AT
the end they sugest to modify the car and make it with carburator.
Please if you can come to a conglusion from the historical of the car
and your experiance I will really apreciate it and I will be very
greatfull to you.
Merry Christmans,
George MichaCHINA 1/7/2002
George; Considering your
particular unique problem and the difficulty of get parts and good technical
help I am going to suggest that you put a carburetor on that car. Good Luck .Lenny.

Hello, I have a 2L '96 Jetta, w/ auto transm. I hope the following very minor (but mind bugging) problem rings a bell: In the dashboard the (automatic) gear-selection-indicator light is not illuminating. It seems
every time someone has worked on my car (airbag, smog test, after MIL
diagnositics etc), it is back "on" or "off". You expect this to be a bad bulb behind the gear-selection window in the
dashboard or is this a signal that comes from _____ ? Suggestions? Appreciate your help.Bram van
Spaendonk, San Jose, CA bvanspae@cisco.com 1/6/2002
I have a 1983 VW Rabbit that has an intermittent fuel pump. It is fuel injected 1.7l, manual
transmission. The fuel pump was seized, we replaced it and it ran fine. Parked it over night and now there is no power to the pump. All the wiring diagrams that we can find do not match this vehicle. We do not know which relay is for the fuel pump. Any
help? Thanks Rick Yuke, Moose Jaw, Saskatchewan, Canada 1/9/2002
Rick; I can tell you this, if you don't have battery voltage, at least
11.5V going to the fuel pump or you have a bad ground connection, check with an
ohmeter then you will burn out the pump. You need a good reference manual. Does
your model have an in-tank pump. If the fuel pump back near your right rear
wheel goes directly into the tank with a short 4" elbow shaped hose then
the answer is no. Otherwise you need to check that pump also. I don't have the
time to look in a book to see where your fuel pump relay is at but if you pull a
relay that has 5 prongs and you jump the 2 that have 30(power) and 87(fuel pump)
written on them then the pump should run and if it doesn't you need to look for
corrosion in your fuse panel and possibly replace the panel. Lenny
Hi! Lenny. It is an external pump and it seems the fuel pump relay is toast as everything works fine by jumping 30 & 87. Thanks RickRick Yuke Moose Jaw Sask. Canada
1/10/2002
I cannot get my 88 Golf 1.8 started. When I turn the key I hear absolutely
nothing (no click) but the lights will come on. I am sure it isn't the battery. It has an Automatic Transmission and I replaced the neutral safety switch thinking that was it but it wasn't. Now I am thinking it is the starter solenoid. Any tips??? Where is the starter located on this engine? Is it possible to jump the solenoid on this engine with a relay to the battery. Any help would appreciated because I need to get it smogged so I can register it. Let me know thanks.
Josh Peters, Las Vegas, NV 1/18/2002
Josh; Ignition switches are a big problem with these cars. Wiggle the key
a little bit to see if something different happens. If is the switch I recomend
that a shop does the because it requires a special puller and the electric,
the
key switch and the tumbler housing all need to be replaced.Lenny. 
I own a mk3 golf gl 1.8l (1992) manual, and recently it has developed a problem when cold starting.
It now takes a few good turns of the starter to start it from cold, and when it does start, initially the
idling speed is noticeable slower, and the car is extremely ponderous at low revs (under 2000), but suddenly leaps into life above 2000 revs. This continues until about 5 minutes driving, when everything (including starting) returns to normal.
Can someone tell me what the likely problem is? Henry, London, United Kingdom henry.odogwu@barcap.com 1/22/2002
Lenny, I have a '98 Jetta GL 2.0L Manual with 74k. It has had more than its share of problems, the worst one being a drivability problem that has been developing since 68k. The engine hesitates upon acceleration and the Check Engine will blink and then stay on. It cruises fine and never stalls. The problem has gotten worse over the last 6k miles and seems to be more common when the engine is warm than cold. It is highly
reproducable--it acts like the air intake is blocked. I have taken the following actions: replaced fuel filter, replaced air filter, replaced all vaccuum hoses under the hood, replaced fuel fill cap, replaced MAF sensor, inspected catalytic converter (looks fine.) The OBD II code says P0102, which is "mass air flow reading too low," but neither the problem nor the code went away when I replaced the MAF sensor. I'm stuck, could you give me a couple of suggestions, things to look for/inspect? My next move would be to replace the O2 sensors, but there is no engine code to support that. Thank You, James Galloway
Austin, TX jamesgalloway@yahoo.com 1/23/2002
Lenny, please cancel my request for help on 1/23 I figured it out! The new MAF didn't fix the problem because one of the many things that I did in the meanwhile was change the plugs (and break the wires) A new wire set solved the problem. James Galloway
James Galloway, Austin, TX jamesgalloway@yahoo.com 2/12/2002
1993 Passat GLX wagon (2.8 VR6, 5 speed, 111k mi.).
Problems:
1) Occasionally during extended highway driving (usu. 65 mpg, usu. after a half hour or more of driving, but not with any regularity under those conditions), the car "bucks"--feels sort of like my folks' old Suburban when it was experiencing vapor lock. Often, the check engine light comes on for a while when this happens (but not always, and every now and then the check engine light comes on after extended highway driving *without* the bucking).. Given that I can hear a pretty loud whining noise somewhere behind me, I wonder if it isn't the fuel pump?
2) Using a jumper wire, I pulled a code 2441 from the computer--but I don't find any references to this code anywhere--am I pulling the code incorrectly? Or...?
E. Coleman Duluth, MN rikercoleman@yahoo.com 1/23/2002
Well I just got a 1999 Beetle form a local dealer and the check engine light loves to come on. Its a 4speed auto; The car has 49k on it and everything else on the car works great!! except the beshatted Check engine light. They have had it in the shop checked the codes replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor...then when the light came on again they replaced the wiring harness. Something about a crimping error whatever the hell that is. Told me that should do the trick your good to go. Not more than a week after I got the car
back...OHH whats this the light is on again!!! Here is my question WHAT IS IT!!! What could be causing this problem and is it dangerious to drive long distances??
Shawn, Utica, NY shawn@darksymphonies.com 1/25/2002
I have a 92' Jetta 1.8 manual, I got the car for a sweet deal. I was told it needed a new head gasket. It will not turn over at all. What steps should I take to fix this beautiful machine. My only previous car restoration was a 65' Mustang. I am an
amateur and need help!!!!Knic,Orlando,Fl. 1/26/2002
Knic; A lot more info would help. A lot more. If you think the head
gasket is blown pull the spark plugs and run a compression test. If water comes
flying out of one of the holes then guess what ?? You have got a blown head
gasket, a possible bad head and if the cylinder walls are scored or have
aluminum on them then you are going to need to replace all the pistons. I am not
sure you are ready for this jog. You will need a special tool to remove and
install the 2 large clips that are at the bottom of the exhaust down pipe. Lenny. 
I am helping a friend with a 98' Beatle, automatic. The car runs ok but the MIL is on. I Scanned the car and come up with a DTC of P0172, system too rich bank 1..Two days
earlier the car had the oil changed, don't know if this had anything to do with the problem. I would buy manual, but I
don't own a VW, just trying to help out. O2 sensors not working? My scanner did not show any voltage movement with rpm increase. The two I saw read about 470
mv.
Thanks for any help you can give
Gene. Gene Wilson, Houston, Tx 1/28/2002
Gene; Based on the info you gave me it sounds like #1 oxygen sensor could
be at least part of your problem. Lenny. 
My 1999 2.0 New Beetle drinks coolant every time I drive it. In August it overheated badly & the dealer replaced the thermostat,
temp sensor, fan control unit among some other o-rings and switches. However the overheating problem remains and I am wondering if the cause is a warped/blown head gasket. How can I determine if it is, and how much money should I expect a shop to charge for that sort of work, any idea?
Also, will a bad overheating experience permanently damage the overall engine performance, and if so, which areas are most vulnerable?
Any input greatly appreciated; anyone who reads this can email me: Jeffrey, San Carlos, CA
1/28/2002
Hi,
I have a 94 Golf with 145K. About 2,500 miles ago, the "check battery" light starting coming on. It goes on and off with no logic, but is off most of the time. The battery is fine, and today I had the alternator replaced, but the light still goes on. Any idea why?
Thanks! Paula, Newfane, VT 1/29/2002
Lenny - a desperate cry from Down Under! We have a 96 vr6 passat with about 75000miles on clock but we have had for only 1 year. In Sept the coolant light started blinking - immediately returned to place of purchase under guarantee. They replaced hoses. When my wife was driving home, coolant poured out. This time they replaced seal and thermostat. Soon after, prob returned - we changed to new local VW man - he tightened water pump but this didn't fix it; he put in a sealant which seemed to work but when the sealant was removed, leak returned. Problems were then found with water pump (replaced) and head gasket (replaced). Last thing was to shave head which had slight warp. (All this costing $mega). Picked up car - drove 10 miles in 2 trips - again light is flashing, evidence of coolant leaking, level is down, when I tried to open coolant to top up, it was boiling and I had to wait. You can see I AM
DESPARATE...any ideas? Thanks KenKen Wight, Melbourne, Australia kwight@bigpond.net.au 2/2/2002
Ken; Don't panic yet. A simple leak from a hose or hose flange will cause
that light to flash if you are low in coolant and it is normal for the coolant
to overflow if you open the expansion tank when the engine is hot. Let it cool
down and top it off between the 2 lines marked min and max and then if you are
still losing fluid have a mechanic run a pressure test if you can not
see the leak yourself. Let me know. Lenny.
Hi Lenny. I have a 2001 Jetta 1.8T Wolfsburg with 7300 miles. My engine runs
rough only sometimes when at idle. You can feel the vibration in the seats when this happens. Over the past 25 days there have been 4 attempts to fix this problem. 1)carbon build-up was found on the engine, spark plugs, oil. They did a decarb and replaced the s.plugs and oil/oil filter. 2)mass airflow sensor replaced. 3)coil packs on cylinders 1 & 2 replaced. 4)engine control module replaced. There have been misfire codes on a combo of cylinders 1 & 2 at each attempt to fix the problem. The check engine light came on after the 3rd try. I haven't noticed the car driving differently, it's just very
rough at idle. It hasn't acted up again since the 4th try but I have this feeling it will...I've now have a case filed w/the BBB requesting to replace the vehicle because I qualify for the VA Lemon Law. The dealer actually said to me "we don't know what's wrong with your car." HELP! This is my brand new car!...my baby! What could possibly be wrong? Thank you.
-Stacy. Stacy Stavrou, Arlington, VAbluedot_6@yahoo.com 2/4/2002
I have a 1990 Jetta Turbo Deisel with manual transmission. The car was driving and running like new at 150,000 miles. Suddenly oil came out of the dip stick coating the engine compartment. The car still runs great when there is oil in but can't drive it because of a crankcase pressure
problem. Can someone enlighten or help a finiancially strapped VW owner with some possible
solutions.Thanks.
Danny Sutherland. datprod@hotmail.com Danny Sutherland,Halifax,Nova Scotia, Canada
2/5/2002 Danny;
You either have bad valve seal leaking oil into your cylinders or more likely
because of the pressure buildup bad or broken rings. Unfortunately the diesels
sometime get a bad groove worn into the upper portion of the cylinder walls
which also could be causing the problem. Sometimes it is fixable with new and
sometimes oversized rings. Lenny.
I have a 99 Passat w/ a 1.8L turbo(gas) automatic and the oil pressure light continues to go off. I use factory filters and still have the problem. I have changed oil weights, etc. No specific times or
rev's-comes on when it wants to 4-5X a day and is VERY annoying-
HelpPete, Metairie, LA 2/13/2002
I have a 1999 VW Jetta Wolfburg ed. 2.0L engine and I cant find the place on engine to fill up with trans fluid canu help me?
Mike G. N. Laud. Fl.33068 wrpoet1@cs.com 2/13/2002
Lenny
I have a 2001 Passat V6 Tiptronic, about 11000 miles. Car makes an occasional "chirp chirp chirp" sound from around right rear when moving. Sound comes and goes and is not constant. I have looked on some VW owner BBS and have seen others mention this. No one seems to know what it is, the dealer can not hear it when I take it in (never seems to make the noise then). One post did mention a faulty EVAP pump that his dealer said was making the noise. Do you have any
experience with this? I know that these noises are hard to locate but if it is part of EVAP perhaps dealer can fix anyway.
Thanks. Curt, Overland Park, KS USA 2/15/2002
Lenny,
My wife's friend has a 1994 Golf III, 2.0L, automatic. She brought it over today as she is having problems with it overheating. The fans work, the coolant is ok, and the belts are new. I assumed it must be the thermostat. I know nothing of this car. I own a 2000 Jetta 1.8t. (Which by the way was rear ended on the highway yesterday, and the whole trunk will probably have to be replaced. Boo hoo.)I am a strong believer in manuals, and have a Bently for my car, but being in a rush, I had to get a Haynes. (I dont like it, as it is very unclear.) Any ways, I could not get the power steering pump to budge out of the way, and was about to give up when I decided to just check over a couple of simple little things for while I had it. Now the problem: there
is oil leaking from the area of the intake manifold, into the air filter box. What might this be? Valves perhaps? Please help. Just trying to be a good husband!
Thanks! Roy Olson, Houston, TX 2/16/2002
Roy; If you want to know if it is the
thermostat you simply start the car when it is completely cold. Reach down,
possibly under the car, and feel the hose coming out of the bottom of the engine
, thru the thermostat, and then into the bottom of radiator. Watch the water
temp gauge as the car heats up and when the gauge reaches the middle and then a
little above the middle you should feel the bottom hose heat up as the
thermostat releases the hot water to the radiator and then shortly after you
should hear the fan kick in. If the hose doesn't heat up then the thermostat is
not opening and needs to be replaced but the most common problem to cause
overheating is for the fan switch to stick and not turn on the fan. Of course a
bad connection to the switch or the fan will do the same thing. Lenny. 
Lenny, I'm an ex mechanic. Probably a bad thing! I bought my son a 1995 Jetta GL 2.0 Automatic. I put a few
gauges in the car, oil pressure being one of them. When cold, the pressure will run to 80psi. At hot Idle its barely readable 2-5psi at best. The motor
isn't noisy but I have that fear that the motor has problems. No smoke and has plenty of power. Is it bearing that are on their way? Is it the pump? Do these motors have an oil pressure issue? Nothing in the manual. Only thing I have done is put screw in head studs as the stretch bolts are a known problem and the head gasket was spewing oil
slightly when I got it
Any help appreciated. Marty M . Ellicott City MD 2/20/2002
The oil pump is usually the culprit or clogging of the screen going to the oil
pump. Usually the engine is noticeably louder when this happens. Check the book
and I believe it will say that the minimum oil pressure should be 29 PSI at
2000RPM when engine is hot . Where did you hook up your gauge ? It is supposed
to be at the end of the cylinder head on the drivers side. Lenny. Lenny,
appreciate the info. I put a 1/8" nipple in the head and a Tee so that I could install the sender and original switch. I changed from 10w-30 to 20w 50, now at Idle I get about 15lbs at 2k I get about 31psi. I am surprised that viscosity would make such a difference!
I'm used to chev V-8's. Changing oil wouldn't make that kind of difference. I do hear what sounds like a bad pulley idler kind of ringing in the belt side of the motor. What do you think, should I go with the pump? Looks easy enough to do. Do you sell these? If so, e mail me the price of pump and gasket required.
Thanks again.Martin Mogavero Ellicott City, MD mmogaver@erols.co 2/26/2002
84 Jetta TurboDiesel 5 speed. Fuel seems to drain back into the tank after it sits for a while. What has failed? Is there a check valve in the injector pump? Thanks!
Pete Wright, Hayward, CA 2/22/2002
Both Rabbits and Golfs use a small spherical plastic coolant tank with a sensor in it (mine is not hooked up!) Is this a pressure, temp, or level sensor? How do I test it and hook it up to a useful gauge? I read zero ohms when I first connect a DVM then it slowly rises to 500K ohms. What should this read?
Gary Newsted, Nashua NH 2/25/2002
Coolant level. And when the coolant level is below
the minimum it will cause the lite to flash but there is no reason to get
alarmed until the temperature gauge reads in the hot zone. Still you probably
have a leak that needs to get fixed. Check the book for specific readings.
Lenny. 
Hi Lenny, I have a 95 Jetta GLX. I have about 131,810 miles
on my car. I recently bought the car but it seems that my oil temp. gauge is not working right. It shows that it is overheating but no lights or
awareness activates. I would sometimes tap the glass and then the needle would slowly
go towards the center or even more to the right. Also, air conditioning panel doesn't light up. I changed the fuse for the interior which is ( Row 25- 15 amp) but did no good. All the other displays light up fine. Please help. Thank You.
Danny, Elizabeth,NJ,U.S,A, Danydc99@aol.com 3/1/2002 Danny;
If you tap on the glass and the gauge moves, guess what ?? You have a bad gauge
or a bad connection to the gauge behind the dash. Without a special tool to pull
the steering wheel hub you are going to have difficulty pulling the steering
wheel so you can get to the instrument cluster to find the problem. Lenny. 
1996 65,000km VW Golf GTI 16 Valve 2 litre. I recently had an interesting problem to which I have found no previous reference.
After driving 300km I stopped the car and after a 2 minute stop the car would only run for 2 seconds before cutting out. The car was towed to a European but non VW service agent who attempted to diagnose the problem. The first suggestion was a faulty igniter coil which seemed hopeful as the national agent had recently sold 2 units. Unfortunately this was not the case. Then they sent the computer to the national agents for testing. This supposedly
revealed a number of faults. It was sent for repair but the New Zealand repairers could not open the computer so sent it to Australia. Fortunately they had the proper equipment and were able to advise that the computer was working perfectly. Then I read a web article about VW's new
immobilizer. The immobilizer would only allow the engine to run for 2 second before shutting off. So A spare key was tried and it worked. The first key was a copy key that was 2 months old and had worked perfectly well for 2,000km. It had not been dropped nor place near magnets. In fact it remained in the
ignition over the period that it failed. How is that for an unusual case?
Peter Young, Auckland, New Zealand 3/3/2002 Peter:
Thanks, I owe you one. I hate to say it but you are one of the few people that
come to the forum and actually contribute valuable info. Most people want to
pick my brain for information and don't even bother to give me feedback as to
whether it was successful or not. Lenny.
I just purchased a 1990 VW Cabriolet What is the middle gauge in the cluster of three above the shifter that reads BAR and has a scale of 1-5?
Also, does anyone out there have an owners manual for this machine? John krs@gocougs.wsu.edu 3/3/2002
John: A bar is a measure of pressure and 1 bar = 14.7 PSI. If you thought
your Cabriolet had low oil pressure the repair manual tells us that your oil
pressure should be 2 bar or approximately 29 PSI at 2000 RPM. If it is much less
you might have thinned out oil or you might need a new oil pump. Lenny. 
I recently bought a 1988 Golf GL (fuel injection). The red temperature light is flashing when I drive (even on cold start). I am not running hot, the coolant level is not below the minimum and the fan starts when the gauge's needle indicate just above the centerline, I think all is working rightly. I am using only water (no coolant).
Could be damage the level sensor or any connection?
Thank you Gerardo Moriel, Chihuahua, Chih, Mexico 3/4/2002 
Gerardo; You answered your own question correctly. The light is probably
indicating incorrectly that your coolant (water) level is low. If you don't use
anti-freeze the coolant level sender will corrode up and won't send a
proper signal. For that matter if you don't use anti-freeze everything will
corrode up and I would hate to be the guy that has to change your water pump. lenny.
'86 Vanagon, Digifant, EngCode MV
Problem: Stalling, usually highway, but now starting around town too. Started as "once in a while" and has grown slowly to "just look at it funny" frequency.
van will cruise fine for a little while (5-10min), then will, intermittently,
"cough". Tach drops off, van feels like I pulled foot off gas pedal. Will sometimes come back on its own, sometimes I have to coast off road and restart.
After restart, will sometimes go on like nothing happened, or will stall again (immediately or a few feet/yards/miles down the road).
Tried So Far:
Shot all the wires from most/all sensors to ecm (followed voltage/resistance check chart in Bentley's manual), and all were fine. Changed Plugs, rotor, ignition coil, cleaned any corroded connectors found (replaced if necessary), running injector cleaner through system now, and replaced fuel filter.
Nothing made a difference except the fuel filter. It ran perfectly for 1.5 days (a major improvement lately), but has now started to have the problem again, though not as bad yet.
Current Suspicions:
The fuel line looked ok, but a little frayed/deteriorated when I changed the fuel filter, my only guess is that the fuel line is
disintegrating inside and the pieces are clogging something (filter probably). Maybe junk in the tank. Saw very small black particles in gas drained from old filter, but none looked very big.
Any ideas would be very appreciated.
Signed
Very frustrated in AR Mike Witt, Little Rock, AR wittmichaels@uams.edu 3/6/2002
Mike; Sounds like you could be on the right track. Check your fuel
pressure. I once saw a car go thru 4 fuel pumps in a row because of a bad
ground. You need battery voltage going to the pump and a a solid ground
connection or your pump will burn up if it is not bad already and you need a
fuel pressure test to determine that. You could also have a defective fuel pump
relay. Lenny. 
My 79 2.0l bus has a full tune up good compression and runs pretty good. While changing the injector seals I noticed the tip of #1 injector was burned off (the plastic
part). Also im getting terrible gas milage. Any thoughts on this Thanks. steve russo naugatuck CT steve.russo1@worldnet.att.net 3/7/2002
Steve; Do all the spark plugs look the same color? A tan ceramic on the
plugs is best, extremely white is too lean and will damage your engine and black
or dark is too rich or if it is only one spark plug then it is possibly a bad
ignition cable. Pull the injectors, jump the fuel pump and
open the door on the air flow box and you will be able to check the flow
pattern. Hopefully you will have a nice, even cone shape. Some may need
replacement if they are real bad. It is expensive but better to replace them all
at one time. Lenny.
I need to change the belts on my 92 passat GL 16v. What exactly do i need to remove and how do i do it? Also. My car is running hot after about 10 minutes of driving.. Steam also comes from under the hood. I was thinking it could be the radiator or heater hose.... What do you guys think?
Brandon Edley, Lewisville TX thapickle@msn.com 3/7/2002 Brandon;
I'll answer the second part of your question. You should be able to open the
hood and see where the leak is at. We have a safer and better method. We remove
the expansion tank overflow cap and attach a pressure tester when the car
is cold. We pump the pressure up to normal operating pressure and then listen
and look for the coolant leak. Lenny.
Lenny, my 1998 Jetta VR6 has been making a funny noise... when I investigated where the noise seemed to be coming from, I felt vibration coming from the area where a round hub of wires connect at the back underside of the intake manifold on the driver's side. The VW dealer said it may be the secondary water pump that operates on water temperature needs when running the heater in the car. After shutting off the car, it whirrs and continues running... I opened up the coolant reservoir cap when the secondary pump was running, and that seemed to relieve the pressure, and the pump turned off. Also replaced the coolant reservoir cap. When it comes on sometime, it seems to operate in quick jolts, rather than running smoothly. I had never in two years noticed the car making the sound before. Could the pump be wearing out or have a bad bearing? Or maybe a bad sensor? I checked it out in a manual, but there was no mention of troubleshooting the secondary pump. Thank-you for your feedback.
eric byrne,upland,CA ebcspace@mac.com 3/8/2002
I've recently bought a 1989 VW jetta 1.8l 16v. It is making a loud repitative rubbing sound from the front passenger side wheel area. It sounds like something is out of round. The sound get louder and faster as the car speeds up. You can also feel the vibration in the floor board. I've checked the cv boots and none are torn. I also replaced the rotors and pads. The sound is still there. Any ideas?
jared, bloomsmburg, pa 3/20/2002 
Jared; Could be your front wheel bearings. Lenny.
Color
Legend
Water-cooled
Engine Overheating
Engine Lubrication
Starting Problems
Tuning Problems
Electrical
Problems
Body Problems
Lenny I have a 1987 VW Golf GL 1.8L 5 Sp with CIS E fuel injection. I drove in garage and it seemed fine after a day of driving around. After a few days I went out and started it to let warm
up and it seemed fine. I came out a few minutes later and the engine was dead.
I tried to start and it would try to start but just wouldn't run. In turning over with starter it sounded like it was out of time. I checked all the pulleys, Set number one cylinder at top dead center, number one plug wire at mark on distributor and every thing was in place.
couldn't check with timing light because it wouldn't run long enough. Timing belt was ok. Since it still sounded like it was off time a little I moved the
distributor a little and engine turns over better. I put timing light on all plug wires and they are all firing. I finally got it to start and run a few seconds at a time. I checked both fuel pumps and they both run, I disconnected the fuel lines at pump and they both pump fuel..
The small pump in tank I recently replaced and have also recently replaced the relay. I removed the cold start valve and had a good cone spray which was pulsating but never broke from a
continuous spray. I checked the thermo time switch with test light and it checked out ok. I recently replaced the oxygen sensor. Filter is clean. Tank has gas. Sounds like it is not getting fuel. I do not have fuel pressure gauge. After trying to start I do smell gas. I need help before I tow.
jphightcordovatnshelby 3/20/2002
 JP;
First off if the car drove good for a day or even an hour it is not likely that
the timing went out unless the car had just been worked on. You have skipped some basics. I am going to guess that if you pull the spark
plugs the inner porcelain might be fuel fouled or black, same thing, and if you clean them
up or
better yet replace them. In the future if you have a good running car that has solid state
ignition that is set properly and all of a sudden you have drivability problems
don't touch the ignition timing as long as you do have spark. Once the ignition
timing is set up properly you should never ever have to touch it again. So leave
it alone. If you didn't overheat the car then compression should be fine unless
something really freaky happened and your timing belt jumped a couple of teeth
or it is stripped out. 1 or even 2 teeth would have less of an effect than
you might think. So now you are left with fuel pressure and you need a gauge to
to check it. Moisture could cause the fuel pump relay to stop functioning and a
corroded fuse panel could do the same. 1 or even 2 intake leaks sounds like a possibility. Remember , you can't
skip basics like compression tests, checking the timing belt, fuel pressure
tests, etc. Try spraying some quick start aerosol to check for intake leaks and be
careful around the ignition wires. Quick start can start a small fire that
usually goes out pretty fast as soon as the aerosol burns up. In summation agent
WD40 if you choose to accept this mission and if your car does self destruct in
30 seconds Lenny's VW will disavow any knowledge of your existence. This message
will delete itself as soon as you have read it. Good luck and use common sense. L. 
Hello, I just bought an '86 Cabriolet, manual transmission, in great shape and I was driving the other day and all the electrical systems went out. I looked under |