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VW Air-Cooled Tech FAQ's 
(Frequently Asked Questions) 

                  FAQ's
These are Frequently Asked technical Questions about the problems that commonly occur to Volkswagens and some answers to those questions. 

CLICK HERE > > > for  WATER-COOLED TECH FAQ's or Frequently Asked Questions

 The following 3 factors are what it takes for an engine to run well or to run at all. Your ability to understand and fine tune these 3 adjustments is what will make the engine perform at it's best: 1) adequate and nearly equal compression 2) a spark at the right time and for the right duration (dwell angle), and 3) the correct fuel air mixture. Try to determine these items first possibly with a tune-up and buy a Bentley repair manual for your car. Always remember the KISS rule. Keep It Simple Stupid. Don't assume it is complicated if you haven't first checked the basics and the obvious possibilities.  1) compression   2) spark and 3) fuel mixture.  
                                                Lenny M.

Air-Cooled Volkswagens
(CLICK HERE  for Water-Cooled FAQs)

Click Here to post for free your VW car or parts
that you have for sale or are looking to buy. For a limited time I will be answering tech questions but only if  I feel I have been given enough info and it is written well enough that I can be of help without having to ask 20 questions.

                              Color Legend
Air-cooled                                           

Engine Overheating                            
Engine Lubrication                              
Starting Problems                    
Tuning Problems                                 
Electrical Problems                             

Body Problems                                    

                      Engine Overheating (Air-cooled)                     

 There are 3 things that cause an engine to run hot;
1) Lack of coolant
        A) Broken fan belt
        B) Any obstruction to air flow, rags in the fan or vents     
2) Ignition timing too far advanced
3) Too lean a fuel mixture.

#1) I bought a 1971 Beetle and it seems to run OK but It sometimes smells like oil after driving it for over a 1/2 hour especially on a hot day. How do I know if the car isn't overheating since there is no gauge. Bob J.  

Bob; That is a weak link in the design of the air-cooled VWs so if you don't add on some kind of aftermarket oil temp or cylinder head gauge there is only one way to know if you are overheating. Ignition knock or  "pinging". Pinging is a noise you can sometimes hear on acceleration especially after the car has heated up to operating temp and is a major no no for air-cooled engines. It is a nuisance in water cooled cars but but can be deadly in an air-cooled vehicle. It is hard to describe the pinging noise that you don't want to hear. It is a shock wave that travels thru the engine block when the fuel mixture in the cylinders is getting so hot that it "pre-ignites" before the pistons are  close enough to the top of their travel so the engine is fighting itself.  To me it kind of sounds like small chains rattling especially on hard acceleration. By the way, don't keep driving the car that is pinging without getting it corrected soon or you'll be looking at an expensive repair bill because of warped heads, burnt valves, and even melted pistons. Oh and the oil you smell is probably a leak from a seal whether you are overheating or not. The hardened seals can be a secondary problem as a result of running the engine too hot for too long or just normal hardening from time and miles.  Lenny

#2)  I just got a 73 super Beetle this might be a dumb question but im wanting to know how far you can safely drive an air cooled bug in a days time. skip camas wa  11/14/2003

ALL DAY AND ALL NIGHT LONG IF THE ENGINE IS SOLID AND PROPERLY TUNED. Older engines with some wear may require a heavier oil especially if you know you are driving long distances. Anybody that tells you otherwise is wrong. The Beetle was never a toy and always a real car. During the war Hitler used them with even smaller displacement engines in the frigid north because because they had no water to freeze and crack the block. Gen. Rommel used them in the hot deserts of North Africa once again because there was no water to leak out in a desert where there was no water to spare. What you need is an expert technician and you need to tell him that this not just an around the town car so he shouldn't over-advance the ignition timing to gain more power only to run too hot. By this time most cars already have a newer  "009" centrifugal distributor and probably a new carburetor. Lenny

 #3)   I own a 1971 Beetle and I am getting what sounds like "pinging" when I really step on it so I am assuming that the engine is running to hot. I have a good engine compartment seal so what can be causing it to run hot. Bob J.  
    There are 3 things that cause any internal combustion engine to run hot; 1) Ignition timing too far advanced. 2) Lack of coolant (air in the case of an air-cooled engine). 3) Too lean a fuel/air mixture. I'll explain in more detail when I get a chance. Lenny

hi i need help with my 67 micro bus, I just had an engine built by a local vw shop to replace the stock engine but this new one seems to ping, i have done everything i know to stop it from doing so which includes adjusting the a/f mixture richer, retarded the dist. 010 centrifugal adv. i run it at about 5 atdc. this engine displacement is a 1776 stock heads stock 34 pict3 stock jets, valves are adjusted perfect and i run an aftermarket oil filter witch adds about another quart of oil to the engine, i am running an Engle cam which is real close to the engle 110 but a little smoother, i replaced the idle jet and it had better response at take off and helped a little with the ping but ate the gas, so i put the stock jet back in, i am now thinking about changing the main jet out to give it more gas, the thing that has me confused is that i heard that the 010 bosch dist. needs to be set at about 10 btdc. can this be right there is no way that my engine would run if this is right!!!!??? oh and everything is new except the engine case. carb, intake, heads, pistons dog house fan shroud cause i wanted it to run cooler, and it is a dual pressure relief case dual port heads any help would be great thanks. jeff mays, shreveport, louisiana  

Jeff; This problem is a serious problem because pinging in an air-cooled engine will damage the engine for sure in the long haul and maybe the short one if it is really bad. In my shop I wouldn't let an engine go out unless it was tuned properly because I would want to protect the engine I just built. The builders of the engine should be dealing with this even if they have to charge because of defects in your distributor or carburetor. The Engle 110 is mild enough. If you have a 009 distributor then you need to rejet your main jet slightly larger than stock. Normal settings for ignition timing should be 7 degrees before and the total advance should be very close to 30 degrees total. If your distributor is defective and advancing to far then this would cause the problem also. At the minimum you need to pull your spark plugs and see if you are running too lean or too hot. Lenny.

                                 Tuning Problems                                      

*** Hello, I have a 1973 Super Beetle. The issue I have is with the Carb that is on the newly rebuilt 1600 cc engine. The Carb is a 34PICT-3 and was working ok until we ran the tank low and it receive a bowl full of crud. I rebuilt the carb and just can not seem to get things to setup correctly. I have followed the instructions that came with the kit and that which is in the different manuals I have. But I just can not get it to run smoothly. Seems to bog out on acceleration. Getting to 65 mph takes for ever now. Runs rough at cruising speeds. Any tricks on the adjustment of the By pass valve and idle jet? Could this be a timing issue and not a Carb issue? Looking forward to your reply. Thanks, Paul Carter, Cottage Grove, OR. 
Paul; We don't bother to try and adjust a carburetor until we are absolutely sure the ignition timing is right and the distributor is good and for that you need a special timing light that indicates initial setting which should be about 7 degrees BTDC and total advance which should be about 30 degrees BTDC give or take a few degrees. You need to run a compression test next. After that is done your points should have been set correctly to between .016"  and .018". Then you can then adjust the carb and see if it acts up. If you have problems on acceleration and you know the distributor is advancing properly and the compression is fairly even then you need to shut the car off, pull the air filter off and make sure that when you a take a safe light and look down the throat of the carburetor you should be able to see the accelerator or dump tube squirting a stream of fuel down the barrel of the carb when you pull on the accelerator arm. If you don't see that stream you may have a clogged circuit or tube or possibly a broken diaphragm in the accelerator pump. Lenny.

Subj: help. Date: 3/1/03 hi I have a 72" beetle 1.6, its running very rich drinks fuel too much stinks and does not start after a run until its not flooded, what do I need to do to turn the mixture down on it? its kicking lots of black smoke out too..... thanks if u can help.

If you are asking what causes a car to run too rich the most common causes are;
  1) Ignition timing too retarded 
  2) Points out of adjustment 
  3) Compression low {needs valve adjust or overhaul} 
  4) Idle mixture set too rich  5)Choke broken or stuck in a closed position.
  To clear the cylinders open the throttle, pedal near to the floor and turn the key. Don't pump the pedal at all. You may need to pull the spark plugs and replace or clean them if they are blackened. Even after you have fixed the problem if you have black fouled plugs the car will still run poor or not at all. Lenny.

Hi lenny i did change the main jet out in the stock 34 pict 3 and it does not ping any longer, it is sad that the shop i used for the technical data gave me all the set up info while building my engine and i told them i wanted a mild driver that i would not have to tinker with too much and what i ended up with was the ping, no one ever suggested to me that i should change the main jet i mean not from that shop, i never ran the motor to the ping stage, but i had to put marvels oiil in the gas and octane booster and such and if i retarded the dist enough it would not ping sounds like a lot of wasted time huh, well i pulled an old 34 pict 3 from out of my garage and it was a solex from germany and not the brasil like on my 1776 i checked the main jet and it was stamped 135 i think and the brasil one was a 120 so i swapped them out, it only took me about 30 minutes to remove the carb and change i wish i did this a year ago,,,lot thanks again lenny keep up the vw spirit. Paul

#9)     Hi, I have a '68 Type 1 that has been converted to 1600cc dual port (by previous owner) and has original distributor and carb for '69. The car will not go over 45 MPH! I checked timing, replaced fuel pump (volume good), and replaced carb with a 2 MPH gain. Idle is intermittently rough (more so than not) and the engine cannot seem to get the RPM it needs. Previous owner stated he rebuilt the engine. Any recommendations? I heard timing will do this if it's 180 degrees out -- ever heard of this?
CARY CHILDERS  

Cary;   I need more info. Based on what you have told me ...The first thing I would do was pull the spark plugs and run a compression test to find out the real condition of the engine and if I just bought the car I would adjust the valves to make sure no damage is being done. I didn't hear you say anything about "missing" so it sounds like a loss of power because of tuning or a tired and worn engine. If the compression is good and even but the plugs are black then you are either running too rich or your distributor, which is an antique should probably be replaced with a 009 centrifugal. This is one of those situations when the KISS rule should be applied. The KISS or "Keep It Simple Stupid" rule that we use in our shop simply means go thru a proper tune-up before you do anything else, then look for other problems. PS Intake boot leaks are a big problem with this engine.   

#10)       I have a '79 Bus, fuel injected 2000cc, with hydraulic lifters and supposedly self adjusting valves. I have been told by some that these valves still need some adjustments. Recently I've heard some clickity-clackity coming from my left side head (cylinders 3 and 4)accompanied by a loss of power. I would like to know how to set these valves and eliminate the clacking (not to mention the damage and cost of having too tight a valve -- I've been there before). I'm temporarily in California, and my trusted mechanic is home in Utah. He was the first to enlighten me about this model's quirk of not-so-self-adjusting valves. After installing the new head, the clickity-clackity of the lifters pumping up went away after fifteen minutes or so (normal) but he said that if it came back, the valves would need to be adjusted again. Well, everything was fine and running great until now (a couple thousand miles later). Please help me in any way you can. This is my only transport, and I'm not going to drive it in such a condition (I love my Bus). Thank you for taking the time. Hopefully, Richard
Richard  

Richard; Lifters don't last forever and sometimes have to be replaced. They make lifter oil additives that you could put in your engine, run it for a little while and then do an oil change. They do work well and I recommend using them every so often. Solid lifters of course are adjusted with .006 of an inch of freeplay or "lash" but hydraulic lifters the book says should be adjusted until the adjusting screw makes contact and then 2 more turns in. I prefer   1 1/2 turns myself. If you still have problems and you are sure it is the lifters then I suggest you replace all of them and of course new push rod tube seals. Lenny

#19hello we are trying to install a bosh 009 distributor in a 1966 vw but we cannot get it to work right for some reason we have never done this before please let us know how to do it if you can thanks.chris Connor 

Chris; A little more info would help , like are you getting a spark at all or is it firing but misfiring. Lets assume you pulled the old distributor and didn't set the engine up for #1 top center. That would be your first mistake but it is fixable. So we start fresh. Turn the engine over until you see a small notch on the inside of the crankshaft pulley in the straight up(12 o'clock) position. You may have 2 or even 3 notches close together so use the one on the left. At this point you are either top dead center(TDC) for #1 or TDC for #3. No matter what position the distributor was in before do it this way. The previous mechanic may have installed the distributor wrong and then compensated by moving the ignition cables to correct for the bad setting. You could do the same but I am going to tell you how do it the right way. Once you have set the notch to the 12 o'clock position you will need to pull the valve cover on the right(passeger) side of the engine to see if you are set up for #1 or the #3 cylinder. If you are set up for #1 ,which you want to be, and  your valves are close to their proper settings, .006", you can check even without a feeler gauge to see if the 3 valve rockers on the extreme right or toward the front of the car should be slightly loose simply by grabbing them with your fingers and see if they will make a tapping sound. If your are in the #1 position but the valves are adjusted too tight the rocker on the extreme left should be so tight that is no lash or tap and should hold that valve in an open position. If you turn the crankshaft a few inches back and forth you should see that valve rocker move up and down. If none of this seems to be the case then you need to turn the entire crankshaft a full 360 degree turn and with the notch up again try the same test I just mentioned to make sure you are set up for #1 TDC.Install the distributor making sure it drops fully down into the drive dog and then turn it until the rotor is pointing at the notch that is etched on edge of the distributor. Make sure your cables are installed in the proper firing order clockwise from the distr notch 1,4,3,2. Get out your strobe lite and check the timing. The crank pulley notch should appear where the case halves split when the car is idling.Lenny

I recently rebuilt my 71 super beetle engine from a 1600cc to 1650 cc. I taught myself how to do it from a haynes manual. The engine is all back together but it is running terrible. The timing is about 30 degrees before tdc and it is suppose to be at 5 degrees after. If I try and time the engine correctly it stumbles and dies. I am stumped to why this is. I have a new coil, plugs, cap, rotor, wires and an pertronix electronic ignition (i have also tried it with out the electronic ignition though and it did not help). I am positive the timing marks on the crank and cam are lined up. I did reuse the old camshaft, lifters, pushrods, and rockers. (could any of these cause that sort of problem). I do know that the distributor driveshaft is misaligned (could that be the problem) I have a relatively new bosch 009 distributor and a new 34 pict 3 carburetor on the engine. I also bought new heads that came assembled (could bad assembly be the problem). Any suggestions to head me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Dan Kelly, Herndon VA  

Dan; For various reasons  mostly related to emissions from year to year the ignition timing settings written in the manual have nothing to do with your engine since you have a 009 and some other changes. You will never develop any power any real power with the timing set at 5 degrees ATDC. Every air-cooled car in our shop including the vans and Vanagon up to mid 1983 are set the same way and that is 7 degrees BTC (before top dead center) and their total setting at about 2500 RPM is 30 degrees. Also the notches on the crank pulley may or may not represent 0 degrees but could be 5 BTC or 7.5 BTC depending on the year or if the car was manual or auto-stick. You could pull the crankshaft pulley off and then turn the crankshaft until the woodruff key and keyway were in the 9 o'clock position and then you would be exactly at TDC and you could then re-mark the pulley notch but I wouldn't bother. Instead just use one of the notches to the left side as 0 degrees and with a timing light that will give degrees of total advance set idle at 7 degrees BTC and then rev the engine up to 2500 RPM and make sure it is capable of advancing to 30 degrees total. Test the setting by reving the engine and test driving to make sure you have good acceleration. Depending on the compression and thus the compression ratio, lower compression requires advancing the ignition timing 2 or 3 degrees and if compression is higher than stock you may have to retard the timing. Finally every time you put a 009 distributor on a car you have open up the stock carburetors main jet a little bit to keep up with the faster advance so you need a special tool for this purpose or a tiny tiny drill bit. After all this is done you must test drive the car to make sure you have no ignition knock, pinging, on acceleration when the car is fully heated up on a warm. Ignition knock is the kiss of death to an air-cooled engine. You can continue to advance the ignition but you must back it off if you get pinging. Lenny. 

Could you tell me the points gap for a 79 beetle? Jason Dooley Cumming, GA  

Jason; Get a manual. Actually I do have a little secret to share with you that you will not find in the manuals. The points gap for all air cooled 4 cyl engines is .016" but the new 009 distributors almost always come set from the factory at .018" so as time passes if you have not been smart enough to put a little grease on the lobes or even if you have used the grease the plastic rider in the ignition points will begin to wear and the motor will actually be in better tune as it approaches .016" but eventually continues on to .014" and below where the tuning will degenerate. Lenny.

#4)#5)#6)    My beautiful 68 Type I is a little droopy in the back. The end angles of the rear torsion bar no longer press hard against the frame to lift the car. I can wiggle the vertical rods that meet the suspension mounts easily because of the lack of pressure (and they do this themselves while I drive). What's happened? Has the torsion bar gone weak, or could the shocks be at fault? Thanks, psnpaul  5/23/2001      

 Paul; You got it right the first time, the torsion bar has weakened over time. There are 2 ways you can fix this. The first way is to pull the torsion bar out part way and adjust it by putting it in a different spline position. This ain't easy. The easiest way is to buy rear coil over shocks that have adjustable springs built in. That way you can adjust and readjust for different ride characteristics and/or different tire sizes.  Lenny M

STARTING PROBLEMS

#7)     I have a 1974 SB Convertible that has a starting problem. There is no rhyme or reason for when it decides not to start except after run at Hwy speeds for about 30-60 mins. Otherwise, it sometimes will not start after being parked overnight until I put a battery charger on it. The battery is new, the starter and alternator have been checked. Sometimes after charging the battery I'll get 6 starts sometimes 2. Help, I want to drive my car, I just don't want to get stuck.   Patty Prescott  

Patty; I don't have enough info to exactly diagnose your problem and worse yet it could be several small problems. Here is a short list.
1) Short in electrical system or appliance left on [dome lite? radio, relay?] Disconnect the battery overnight and reconnect in the A.M. to see if the car starts.
2) Bad connection to battery, alternator etc plus bad ignition switch.
3) Bad rebuilt starter
4) Internal short in battery--so disconnect battery overnight to see if it still runs down.
5) Any combination of the above including poor alternator output.  Lenny

 

Date: 4/3/03 Help i cant get my 1970 bug to start ,i replaced the starter and the ignition switch and it still will not do anything, please help! my name is richard wisk and my e-mail is rcwisk69@msn.com

Richard; Process of elimination. Jump the starter directly or jump it from the heavy wire under the rear seat drivers side. Check your transmission ground strap that grounds to the chassis and make sure the connection is good.

 

Lenny's VW prides itself in the knowledge that our integrity is second to none. (I wanted to wear sunglasses for this shoot but the other 3 guys said they hadn't been invented yet.)

                                Electrical Problems                                        

Tech Data
Wiring Terminal Identification by Number 
Next time you pull a relay or a switch and look at the numbers and wonder what they mean you will wish you had this list. I only wish I had had it 20 years ago.

       Lenny; Hi, I bought my 11 year old daughter a 62 bug. Its a 6 volt car, manual trans, I guess it is a 1200cc. Can you tell me how to and the problem I am having is the generator went bad so I bought a new one and a voltage regulator and it needs to be enrgized to charge. I am lost there . Thanks Bill Columbus, Ohio.

Bill; You take a wire and touch terminal B+ to terminal D+ and you will see a spark. This should polarize the generator. This works the same for 12 volt systems but usually is not necessary and sometimes stops charging shortly afterward. The engine can be running or static, it shouldn't matter. Lenny.

#11)       Can you tell me how to test the fuel gauge in my Beetle speedo. I have no reading and the tank sender is ok.Peter  9/3/2001
Peter; Your manual will tell you it is safe to ground the brown wire going to the sending unit for a short period of time. Turn the key on , touch the wire to ground and check the gauge to see if it rising to the top as though the tank were full. If nothing happens your problem is a bad vibrator or a bad gauge or bad connections to them. Lenny 

#12)       I recently purchased a very rare 1973 Sports Edition Super Beetle in near-mint condition. It was an old man's baby car until he died 12 years ago and it had been driven a few times since, only parked for good 2 years ago. When the car started the generator light came on, but because a few cables were loose on the battery cables, and that problem was taken care of, but when you rev up the accelerator, the light comes back on. We figured it's probably the alternator, since that was the problem on my last bug, and I took a look at the brushes and they were pretty swollen compared to the new bosch alternator I pulled out of my dead 69 Bug when I tried to repair that one. I'm already half done swapping the damn thing out, but the fan shroud won't budge. Before I go any farther, do you think it's the alternator ? Thanks for your time.Joe Kwiatkowski  
Joe; More info please. A 69 bug would have a generator and not an alternator unless it was modified and the 73 SB if modified could have 2 different types of alternator, one with an external voltage regulator and one with an integral(inside) type of regulator. Yes it sounds like the alternator but it is easier to check when it is on the car. Once you pull it off the car you have to put the pulley on it and take to an automotive electrical shop to be tested on their bench tester. Lenny

#13)        Lenny: Yeah I forgot to mention that the previous owner had retrofitted (rudimentarily) a 74 engine into the 69 bug, that's why I bought a new alternator for it until it just started seizing all the time. I pulled that alternator out of the 69 and just put my blue Super beetle in the shop for them to swap it out, convert it to internal regulation, and check what else that generator light could be coming up for. I just wish I could have saved myself the money and done it on my own, but better safe than sorry. Thanks,Joe Kwiatkowski 10/6/2001

#17) I want to install an oil temp gauge for my 72 kombi. Can you inform me how and where to install the sender ? Thank's Isa 
Isa; You can buy an aftermarket temp gauge sending unit that will simply screw in to the hole that you have removed the oil drain plug from. Lenny

#18)My 1974 VW bug just lost both headlights, they both quit working at the same time, what should I check in order of importance, and best "guess" in order to pinpoint the problem? Thanks, Bobby HedrickBobby Hedrick  12/16/2001
Bob; Your headlites are normally on separate fuses so that if the fuse blows you won't find yourself driving down a dark road and all of a sudden finding yourself in a canal. Chances are you have loss of power to your lite switch or a bad switch or bad connection coming out of the switch. My money is on a bad switch. Lenny

I have a 1974 standard Beetle and I am trying to replace the headlight/emergency switch, and the wires are all disconnected and I don't know in what order to put them back. The wires are black w/white strip...plain red...gray w/red strip...white & black...gray w/brown or tan...black w/green strip. And the switch I have has 6plugs. Is there anyway for you to help me out with this. Thank you for your time.I appreciate it. Thank you again. Nicole. Nicole, Newport News,Va  1/30/2002
NIcole; Find yourself a  Beetle in a car lot or at a friends and look under the hood. Bring pen and paper and write down the position of each wire and its color code. Or find yourself a manual and do the same. That switch should be common to quite a few years so you don't have to have a 1974. Lenny. 

I have a 1970 beetle convertible with a new engine (2500 miles), new starter, new battery. When I drive it, the generator light comes off and on intermittently, usually staying on for about 10 seconds at random times. It's very dim though, not bright. All of the other electrical components (i.e. lights, radio, etc. ) work ok. Could this be worn generator brushes, or just a ground problem that I will just have to put up with unless I want to chase the problem down. Any suggestions? Thx S Steve Holt, Webster, TX, USA steveh000@hotmail.com  
Steve; Put a voltmeter on the battery to check your charging rate. When the engine is revved up you should be getting around 13.5 to 14.5 volts on a fully charged battery. If you want to isolate bad connections, bad generator or bad voltage regulator the manual will show how to do those tests with a simple voltmeter. Need a manual? Let me know. 
E-mail Lenny's by clicking here.

I have a 1975 super beetle tricked out,I am looking for a alternator that puts out 14 volts. Do you are anybody make such a thing ? please let me know thank you. carlos Norwalk CT.  3/14/2003
All alternators and generators put out more than 14 volts but the voltage regulator won't let them put out so much juice that they overwork the alternator or burn up the battery or other devices on the car. The old mechanical type of voltage regulators could be adjusted for voltage output but everything is solid state now. If you have a alternator with an external regulator you could probably find a voltage regulator from a different car that has a greater output rating. If you need more on call back up juice then just get a bigger battery. That is always a good idea anyway. What kind of non stock electrical devices do you have on your car and what is their power demands.

Date: 4/5/03 From:  
Hello, sorry to have to email you a question but I would really appreciate some help if you could. I have a 74 engine in my bug and of course have to deal with the alternator with the external voltage regulator. I have the regulator, and the wiring schematics, but I don't have the color code for the wires. So I know how to hook it up, I just need to know which wire is which (RF -, RF + ect) Any idea? I appreciate your time.

Ima; If you look carefully you should be able to see the letter designations on each connection on both the voltage reg and the alternator. You know, paint by numbers. It's simple. Even a kid could do it but where's a kid when you need one.

Hi - I own a 1973 Volkswagen Super Beetle - rebuilt in 2001 with 650 miles on rebuilt engine. I've only had to replace the battery, but the rest is ok, until today. I took a trip to Portland, OR and noticed that the Generator and Battery light came on. It died in downtown Portland but I was able to turn it over and got to my destination. As I left Portland no light was on until about 20 minutes into the drive. I was terrified that it would die again. Also, when it died in Portland, everything went dead and the radio has to be reprogrammed. Can you help me? I know nothing about rebuilding a generator or if the battery is bad (hope not it's brand new) I also don't want to get ripped off at the repair shop. Any suggestions would be very, very much appreciated. I have to go back to Portland (about 78 miles one way) on Tuesday. Thanks much....Lisa. Lisa - Albany,Oregon lisacmattes@aol.com 4/17/2003
I am going to keep this real simple since you really don't have the tools or test equipment to do anything fancy. Fully charge the battery and drive home. Don't use any electrical devices you don't have to use.
Wipers, lights, fan motors starters use a lot of electricity. I am going to guess that the battery is probably good but if you can buy a battery from a chain outlet (Sears, Discount Auto?) and you leave it in the box and put it somewhere in the car it would be a good piece of insurance that you could return if you don't need it. You could even jump start your car off it and leave it connected to your regular battery under your rear seat while you drive merrily on your way home or until you can get somewhere for a potential battery charge up. A cheap pair of pliers is probably the only tool you will need to change the battery if you have to. Every car needs a cheap, or not cheap, set  of jumper cables so no money will be wasted if you buy a pair. Please, buy a pair. Here is the deal. Your generator or alternator (you didn't tell me which you have) or voltage regulator is or are probably defective. If you have a fully charged battery in a Beetle I believe you could probably drive all the way to California and back as long as you didn't use the starter excessively or any fans or electrical devices that eat up a lot of juice. If you don't have a charger maybe you can find a friend who will put your battery in their car and drive around for a day and charge it up or if they have a Beetle set it on the floor in the back and put the jumpers from their battery to yours and it will do the same thing as you drive around. The production of spark for the engine is 25,000 Volts but is actually a very small amount of actual electricity. If it turns out it is raining heavily Tuesday you could be SOL. Good luck or as they say in German viel glŁck. (pronounced "feel gloock"). Lenny.

#8)      Dear Sir, I have a '69 type 2 with a stock 1600 single port engine. But my question is about the clutch. I have to replace the clutch disc. I bought my replacement part before I pulled the engine out not knowing that there are two types. The disc that's on the engine is a "spring type", my replacement part is, I guess, a "rigid type", ie it doesn't have springs. Can I use the rigid type in place of the spring type? It's a quality Sach's brand German made part so.....Thank you, -Paul Loyd
Paul Loyd  
Paul;   Yes either spring or rigid 200mm clutch disc is acceptable. The spring type shifts a little more smoothly. Lenny.

#14)I have a 1972 super beetle and i was wondering how to lower it?RON M 11/7/2001
Ron; To lower the front of the car and give it a "raked" look you need to purchase special custom shorter front struts. To lower the front and rear of the car you need to perform a fairly difficult job of removing the rear torsion bars and repositioning them in their spline. I personally recommend against lowering the rear. The car will have the tendency to bottom out and you may find yourself going thru a set of tires every other month. LennyPS One of my mechanics informs me that just lowering the front end will cause you problems so now I am not sure what to believe. I recommend you talk to a technician from any company you might buy from when you go to buy lowered front struts.

#15)Hi. I have a question concerning the "heat button" on the underside of my 2000cc pancake engine. I purchased a new rebuilt from well known company 2 years and 14,000 miles ago. I also purchased the extended 3 year warranty. On a highway trip one of the connecting rods apparently went. The company tells me to check this heat button to see if it looks like a dime or a washer. Apparently, if the sodder in the middle is gone and it looks like a washer, it means the engine overheated and the warranty is void. Do you know if those buttons are a 100 percent accurate? The reason i ask, other than the warranty thing, is that I noticed none of the common overheating symptoms, ie: pinging, loss of power, before the knocking started and it was too late. Thanks.1 vwlvr  11/7/2001
vwlvr; I do not know about 100% accuracy. I stock those buttons but in ten years I have never really used them. I would like to know at what temperature yours is  designed to melt at. I am inclined to agree with you that if you were overheating an air-cooled engine you would have noticeable pinging if you were experienced enough to know what it sounds like and it sounds like you do. Yes you would have some loss of power. Sounds like you are on the right track.     I have had a couple of horror story experiences with a couple of rebuild companies recently. E-mail me at my personal e-mail address and we can talk about it. That's lenmarsh12@cs.com  Lenny

#16) Hi!. I recently bought a 1970 convertible. I found the serial # (159 763 597) on the left side of the dashboard. I've tried to locate the serial # on many catalogs but I've had no luck finding any more details about the car. Can you tell me were I can find a reliable source of information on serial numbers, thanks!Abner  11/11/2001
Abner; I assume when you say serial numbers you are referring to VIN or vehicle identification numbers. How about my website?? On the opening page of my site the link is Type I VIN # by Year and on the other pages it is Type I VIN and Engine Numbers           Lenny

#20 #21)I have a type three VW engine in a Trike. Need the following. 1) Valve lash settings. 2) Connecting rod torque spec's. 3) Recommended oil for this type of application.Bruce Bastin  1/3/2002
Bruce;
Get a book. Valve lash .006 of an inch, exhaust and intake, 25 foot pounds for the connecting rods the you have to stake them with a punch after you torque them, I recommend a straight 40 oil. Lenny

I have a 69 Beetle and I am going to do a rebuild and was wondering if upgrading from the 1500cc to the 1600cc or 1650 cyls and pistons would be ok and still stay with the single port heads and old carb. would i be gaining any horsepower or am I going to be starving my engine by staying with single port? thanks, James James, Hannibal, MO USA jcernea@swbell.net 1/16/2002
James; No problema to any of your questions. In a stock configuration (stock carbs, cams etc) the only difference between the dual port and the single port heads as far as power goes is that you will have more power at higher speeds on the hiway when you open it up with the dual port heads because they breath better (less restriction) but you can actually get real good low end torque and responsiveness from the single port heads in a stock setup. Lenny.

Hi Lenny, I just purchased my first Beetle, with the plan being to make it a Baja Bug. It's a 68, with swing axles, and has been lowered "on the cheap". I wish to restore the suspension to stock configuration for now, and raise the suspension a few inches later. How would the previous owner lower the suspension without after-market parts? What would I need to do to restore it to stock specs? What do you recommend for a suspension lift? Do you know where I could buy a 2-inch body lift kit? Thanks, Todd McMahon, San Diego, CA  1/24/2002
Todd; Sorry it took so long to get back to you. The way to raise or lower a standard Beetle front end is to cut the torsion housing in the center in 2 places about 3 to 5 inches possibly using a pipe cutter or even a hacksaw and the with a pipe wrench twist the center area you have cut to either increase or decrease the tension which will either raise or lower the front. Then you must weld the center portion into its new position or you can buy a kit that will make adjustable without any more welding. For a baja I recommend you raise the front and the rear. Not only does it give you better ground clearance but gets airborne better when you come off a jump kind of like a grasshopper. As you approach and make contact with the ramp leading up to a jump the torsion springs compress and build up potential energy and after you come off the lift gets you flying. Lift kits are still available but I am not sure where. Lenny.

Hi, I have a vw beetle 1978 1600, its been converted into a beach buggy. I need to remove my distributor from the engine. How do i do this - I removed the clamp on the housing but this only allows me to turn the distributor and not remove it. Any help will be appreciated. thanks Craig. South Africa  1/31/2002
Craig; Sounds like it is stuck. You are going to have to get a pry bar and get rough with it. This can be common in an older bug. Lenny.

I have a 69 auto-stick, was wondering about replacing the engine with a new one, i know i would have to hookup the oil 2 stage oil pump, but was wondering how much other stuff on a stock 1 engine would need to be changed bruce. bruce, va beach, va 2/20/2002
Bruce; You will also need to replace the flywheel with the torque-converter flex plate or drive plate and you can't just replace the flywheel without setting the end play between .003 and .005 of an inch and for this you will need to take it to a qualified shop. You will also need to make sure the oil pump matches. There are 2 types of pumps and camshafts. The early flat camshaft works with and earlier oil pump and the later model dished out camshaft works with a later model oil pump. Lenny.

I HAVE SEVERAL SETS OF STOCK AND AFTERMARKET VW ROCKER ARMS, (FOR A '64 VW BUG) ARE THERE MEASUREMENTS THAT I CAN TAKE TO DETERMINE THE RATIO OF THESE ARMS? THANKS FOR ANY HELP! JASON, BARNHART, MO  3/20/2002
Jason; If they are stock you should be able to find the ratio in a Bentleys repair manual or you can look in a Bugpack book for this type of reference.

Could you tell me the points gap for a 79 beetle? Jason Dooley Cumming, GA  1/22/2002
Jason; Get a manual. I normally would not answer a question that could be so easily referenced but I do have a couple of trade secrets to share with you. The points gap for all air cooled 4 cyl engines is .016" but the new 009 distributors almost always come set from the factory at .018" so as time passes if you have not been smart enough to put a little grease on the lobes or even if you have used the grease the plastic rider in the ignition points will begin to wear and the motor will actually be in better tune as it approaches .016" but eventually continues on to .014" and below where the tuning will degenerate. Lenny.

Hello Lenny, I own a 71 Ghia semi-automatic coupe. It was working perfectly until i decided on installing a bigger engine. The one it came with was a 1641cc with a 105 cam and stock crank. I switched to a newly rebuilt 1776cc with 110 cam and counterweight crank but this engine would not respond. while it would idle and rev nicely in neutral, it stutters and loses power when i try to drive. I removed the engine and rebuilt the 1641cc but switched the crank to a counterweight one and it does the same friggin thing. I have no power in forward gears but PLENTY POWER IN REVERSE. I have changed all vacuum hoses and haven't found any leaks. There is however a muffled horn sound coming from the shift solenoid when i go in gear, even when the engine is not on and i shift to gear ,..it makes this sound three or four times and then stops. Both engines idle and rev nicely so long I don't try to drive forward, in reverse it is working fine it even burns a little rubber. I have also noticed that I cant seem to get all my spark plugs to work . the car pings when going uphill, and a check reveals that theres always one plug not firing. Everything on these engines is new, plugs(I have used over twenty so far trying to get my car to work) wires cap, etc. Is there anyone out there who has used a slightly modified or 1776cc engine on an auto tranny with success? Could the counterweight cranks be the problem? As i mentioned earlier,..reverse is working great,..with lots of power,but going forward it hesitates and loses power...HELP!! LIONSDREAD , ST. CROIX ,VIRGIN ISLANDS 1/23/2002

Jarro; Sounds to me like you are running too lean or your ignition timing is too far advanced. You shouldn't  have ignition knock (pinging) under any circumstances. This can literally melt your pistons and burn your valves. Lenny.

I recently rebuilt my 71 super beetle engine from a 1600cc to 1650 cc. I taught myself how to do it from a haynes manual. The engine is all back together but it is running terrible. The timing is about 30 degrees before tdc and it is suppose to be at 5 degrees after. If I try and time the engine correctly it stumbles and dies. I am stumped to why this is. I have a new coil, plugs, cap, rotor, wires and an pertronix electronic ignition (i have also tried it with out the electronic ignition though and it did not help). I am positive the timing marks on the crank and cam are lined up. I did reuse the old camshaft, lifters, pushrods, and rockers. (could any of these cause that sort of problem). I do know that the distributor driveshaft is misaligned (could that be the problem) I have a relatively new bosch 009 distributor and a new 34 pict 3 carburator on the engine. I also bought new heads that came assembled (could bad assembly be the problem). Any suggestions to head me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. Dan Kelly, Herndon VA  1/14/2002
Dan; For various reasons  mostly related to emissions from year to year the ignition timing settings written in the manual have nothing to do with your engine since you have a 009 and some other changes. Every air-cooled car in our shop including the vans and Vanagon up to mid 1983 are set the same way and that is 7 degrees BTC (before top dead center) and their total setting at about 2500 RPM is 30 degrees. Also the notches on the crank pulley may or may not represent 0 degrees but could be 5 BTC or 7.5 BTC depending on the year or if the car was manual or auto-stick. You could pull the crankshaft pulley off and then turn the crankshaft until the woodruff key and keyway were in the 9 o'clock position and then you would be exactly at TDC and you could then re-mark the pulley notch but I wouldn't bother. Instead just use one of the notches to the left side as 0 degrees and with a timing light that will give degrees of total advance set idle at 7 degrees BTC and then rev the engine up to 2500 RPM and make sure it is capable of advancing to 30 degrees total. Test the setting by reving the engine and test driving to make sure you have good acceleration. Depending on the compression and thus the compression ratio, lower compression requires advancing the ignition timing 2 or 3 degrees and if compression is higher than stock you may have to retard the timing. Finally every time you put a 009 distributor on a car you have open up the stock carburetors main jet a little bit to keep up with the faster advance so you need a special tool for this purpose or a tiny tiny drill bit. After all this is done you must test drive the car to make sure you have no ignition knock, pinging, on acceleration when the car is fully heated up on a warm. Ignition knock is the kiss of death to an air-cooled engine. You can continue to advance the ignition but you must back it off if you get pinging. Lenny.

I just bought a 1965 beetle convertible. It doesn't shift well. It goes into reverse well but not into first. I have to keep shifting around to find first gear. I usually have to shift into reverse before I can get it into first gear. It sometimes is also hard to get into second gear. Do you think it is the transmission or a linkage problem or something else? Also, it has a 12 volt system. I read that 1965 beetles had 6 volt systems. Do you think this was modified after the car was new? Joe Joe Como, California jpcomo@yahoo.com 3/5/2002

Joe; Yes the car was modified from 6V to 12V. Shifting problems that you described are usually in the linkage. If you move the shift lever around and it is kind of sloppy and you can hear metal hitting metal then your shifter bushing are worn out or gone and need to be replaced. If you disconnect the 2 bolts holding on the shift lever and lift it up you should see the shift plate and the reverse lockout spring. A lot of times people take this off and then they either put the lockout plate in upside down or they position it so the largest ramp is not on the right (passenger) side where it should be. If that is not your problem you may find that if you remove the rear seat and then remove the phillups head screw from the shift bushing cover plate you may see the rear rectangular shift bushings are very loose, badly worn, or even disintegrated. You need to replace them if this is the case. Finally you have a bushing in the front "nose cone" of the transmission and if you lift the rod coming out of the transmission and there is a lot of side or radial "up and down" play then the transmission bushing is badly worn and may need replacement. This requires removing the tranny unless you can acquire a bushing and do it thru that plate cover. It is unusual for this bushing to go bad so try everything else first. Lenny.

I have a manual 1970 beetle that has a fuel problem. The problem is that the bug starts up and runs for about half the day, then at about the same time every day it just quits...quits meaning that it decelerates, acting exactly like it has run out of gas...except that it is over half full of gas. Now according to the receipt i recieved from the auto shop down the road after i took it in and got it back "fixed" (which it is not cuz it did the exact same thing the next day) the fuel pump is working and the caburetor is getting fuel. The problem he found is that there was an extra washer inside the carb. He took it out and it started right up. Yet here i am again on the side of the road. I've had the gas tank cleaned at a radiator shop, and i don't know what is left to check. Is it maybe a vaccum type problem or is it maybe something else i haven't thought of?? Any advice could help.Jared, Waterford, CA cotigchez@aol.com 3/7/2003

Jared; You need to divide and conquer or should I say isolate and analyze. For instance if the car was beginning to lose power and fuel blockage might be the suspect then when it happens be prepared with a can of gas and a fuel hose and stop the car by the side of road and hook it up and see if you you still have a power loss. Or you could put a gas can in the trunk or the back seat and run a clean. This are all very very hazardous and you should always use good hose and clamps and carry a fire extinguisher. You will also lose power when the valves are too tight and as you drive the car and the valves heat up you begin to lose power because of 0 or negative lash. A simpler or safer method would be to have a fuel pressure gauge tee conncted into the carburetor input hose. Fuel pumps are cheap. Replace it and check to make sure you have the correct length of pump rod. Long for generators and short with alternators usually. Pull the spark plugs. Aren they fouled out , what is the compression like when the engine is run for a while.

wonderin why my 1600 dual port wont start it has fire on all cylinders getting fuel .i put j pipes on it and fuel leakes out on the #1 side it just pops and blows flames out the stinger and it is wired right...any ideas.Gene, salem Oregon ghawkins2000@aol.com 3/7/2003

Gene; Pull the spark plugs and see if they are black or smell like fuel. Check your dipstick for fuel in the oil. If so you carburetor is overflowing and foulin outb your plugs. Lenny

Hi, I have a 1971 super beetle 1600cc dual port code AE motor. It has the stock carb #34 on it. runs well, just had the heads retorqued and the valves adjusted. BUT.... at full throttle, it smokes and I am seeing oil sprayed up on the cover of the air cleaner. The air cleaner is an aftermarket. It is about 6 inches in diameter. The car has 132k and has a stick shift. the passanger side head was replaced due to a blown out spark plug.... hope you have enough info.... thanks big al 1971 super beetle surf bug...al miami florida skydiveforcancer@hotmail.com 3/20/2003

Al; Get that compression test on your engine. Basics first. Lenny.

Wally; Keep the distributor and the webor progressivecarbueretor and add hydraulic cam followers (lifters). Have me or someone else take your cylinder heads and flycut them slightly and you will be able increase the displacement a lot without having to touch the case. The 1700 heads actually have much bigger valves than the 1800 cc heads and with the combination of hydraulic lifters that carb the 009 distributor you will have a smooth, quiet,powerful, fairly fuel efficient and quiet engine. Trust me you will like it. I did. I don't know about that aftermarket distributor.What is it?  E-mail Lenny's by clicking here.

Hi, I have a 1971 super beetle 1600cc dual port code AE motor. It has the stock carb #34 on it. runs well, just had the heads retorqued and the valves adjusted. BUT.... at full throttle, it smokes and I am seeing oil sprayed up on the cover of the air cleaner. The air cleaner is an aftermarket. It is about 6 inches in diameter. The car has 132k and has a stick shift. the passenger side head was replaced due to a blown out spark plug.... hope you have enough info.... thanks big al 1971 super beetle surf bug...al miami florida skydiveforcancer@hotmail.com 3/20/2003

Al; Get that compression test on your engine. Basics first. Lenny.

Great site guys. I have what I believe is a 1968 beetle (might be a little newer). The automatic is blowing oil out all over the place and slipping. The oil leak looks to be between the engine and tranny, although some has been blown up into the engine compartment. Single port motor runs real well. Seal gone? What tranny fluid should I used when finished with repair? Thanks much. Steve Reiter steve Reiter, Bellwood, Nebraska smreiter@yahoo.com 3/21/2003

Steve; Don't keep running it short of fluid or you will ruin the tranny and they ain't cheap. Dexron II or the newer Dexron III

Hi I have a 1969 bug. My problem is coming from the rear driver side wheel. My bug is making a really bad squeaking noise. The squeak gets faster as the car moves faster. When I am slowing down the squeak slows down and when I down shift is sounds like it stops but I am not sure if it realy stops or i just can't hear it over the noise of downshifting because it starts back up after I let the clutch out. It has been doing this for a couple of months and I think it may be getting worse. Josh, Woodland, CA floodwizer2@aol.com 3/25/2003

Josh; It sounds like the large axle nut that holds the rear wheel drum has not been properly torqued to 215 foot pounds and if that is the case then the splines on your brake drum may already be damaged to the point where it needs to be replaced. It is less likely but possible the stub axle has been ruined also. If the nut is loose then that is the problem. Since I can't hear the sound it could be brake parts installed incorrectly and maybe springs or emergency brake cables are making contact with your drum. Either way you need to remove the drums to inspect because it sounds like an amateur has been working on this car. If you don't have a torque wrench of that size get yourself a pipe wrench or a breaker bar and add some kind of an extension like a pipe to increase your leverage. Let me know if any of this helps. Your return input is important to me. Lenny.

Hi, I just purchased a 1960 VW Bug that is stock (except for color) I have never restored a VW and I want to do it right. I have taken the car completely apart. My question is how important is it to put it back to the original color (indian red). I would like to do it in black. I have restored corvettes before and it is a must to collectors to have it the original color. Thank you for any help you might be able to give. Bob. bob preston,Camarillo,CA. bob.preston@verizon.net 3/28/2003

Bob;  A 1960s car is 43 years old, almost a half of a century. If this car is completely detailed out original then I would assume someday the original color will make the car more valuable to the collector but is that the only reason you are restoring the car?
     Let me remind you that black of course is the most difficult color to paint a car. Unlike lighter brighter colors if black is not done perfect the smallest flaws will jump out at you. Go to an antique car show and look at those Model Ts with those $5,000 plus paint jobs and you will be reminded of what I mean. Lenny.

Just need to know what a typical 1968 bug would have for stock original emissions parts Steve,Buckeye,AZ, Bellinaz@aol.com 3/5/2003

                                         Body Problems                                     

Subj: Key switch Date: 4/26/03 From: NeilandLiz@aol.com 
Could you help? Just went outside to start my 1970 Beetle and I locked the steering wheel. Now I can't get the wheel to unlock despite rocking it back and forward for the last 30 minutes? Of course, now my bug is sitting in the driveway and I can't start it. Do you have any suggestions on how to unlock my steering wheel? Thanks. 
Neil; I hate it when that happens. We used to have one guy at my shop that had more patience than me that could eventually always get it loose. Brute strength won't help here. Tugging in and out on the key while applying pressure from different directions while you shake and turn the steering wheel is all I can suggest. You might want to think about replacing the key tumbler and housing and ignition switch when you eventually get it loose. You might also try spraying some penetrating oil in the keyhole. Lenny.

Lenny; How do tell the difference between a Super Beetle and a std Beetle thank you.
From 100 yards if you can see the front of the Beetle on a Super Beetle you will see a louvered grill under the front bumper. This is ostensibly for the condenser of the AC system. Actually the functional difference is that the SB has a McPhearson strut front suspension instead of the horizontally configured torsion leave suspension of the standard Beetle. To many of us Beetle aficionados the standard Beetle is much preferred to the SB because of the simplicity of design and maintenance of the front end steering and suspension parts. Lenny.

Subj: 1971Beetle Date: 4/17/03 From: peasants@greenvillenc.com 
Hello VW Doc,
My friend is a VW fanatic. She has a convertible 1971 Bug. This particular model has a second safety latch activated from inside the Glove box which must be released before the latch located on the front hood itself can be unlatched.
The problem is that the cable has broken somewhere beyond where I can get a hold of it with a pair of pliers from the glove box. Hence it is impossible to get into the storage area. Bad news is that this was a month ago. Thereís a seven year olds school lunch up in that thing so if we do get it open, Iím thinking there are pluses and minuses.
Iíve tried fishing a piece of flat metal and can actual pop the latch on the hood itself, but I have NO IDEA where or how that second latch works. Word from local mechanics if that itís a FUBAR. Got any suggestions? Paul Edwards Wilmington NC
Paul; I will try to be more detailed later because this is a common and difficult problem problem. If you absolutely cannot get the glove compartment handle to release the hood latch then you may have to break or cut the latch loose from the glove compartment and pull hard on the release cable. If that won't work then you may be able to cut the hood handle off with a die grinder and with a lot of effort grind away enough of the handle to release the hood. Let me think about this some more. Glove compartments and hood handles are not super expensive. Trunk hoods can be and paint ain't cheap either. Lenny.
Subj: RE: 1971 Beetle Date: 4/19/03 From:peasants@greenvillenc.com
I will try the pulling very hard from the cable end approach, but I get the impression that the cable itself is incased and the casing is all that I can get a hold of. Thank you so much for taking some time to give it some thought. AS I move the handle it moves like grease, as in no resistance, which as I understand was not the case before. That leads me to believe that the cable is worthless to me but I havenít tried the all out approach to cutting the glove box all the way out of the way and snatching on the cable casing. Are the hood handle release and the glove compartment release latch mechanisms located, attached at the same point under that latch on the hood?
If you have any questions about running a bar or working with live music, feel free for a tit for tat trade in expertise. Paul, Wilmington NC
Paul; It sounds like the cable has detached from the latch. It is starting to sound like die grinder time. Lenny.

my '72 super beetle is stuck in second gear help!!!!! I would like to know how to fix & or change the manual transaxle Joseph Falco,boomer,nc  11/12/2003

SECRET VW TRICK # 852. YOU ARE HOPEFULLY JAMMED UP IN THE NOSE CONE OF THE TRANNY. If you are then sometimes you can loosen up the nose cone (without pulling the engine) and get the "hockey stick" shift finger unjammed between gears and maybe combine this with a screwdriver inserted into the gear lube level inspection hole to move the gears and shift forks manually at the same time.

 

Date: 4/4/03 6:39:39 From: Vwloweiii@aol.com 
how in the hell do i get the rear drums off of a 65 ghia, i have tried every thing, it looks like the drum and nut are one solid part. cant get them to budge.

There are a lot of tricks including torches which which if not used correctly can ruin your rear wheel bearing seals, but If you go find a place that works on trucks or maybe a tire store they probably will have a serious heavy duty pneumatic impact gun that will loosen them for you so you can go home and finish your work. Lenny.

 

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